Franconia 2012

Another video of Franconia more than a decade ago. Just shows how long it takes me to get around to doing things. Like editing video. Still, better late than never.

In the video I visit Ebermannstadt,  Aufseß and Bamberg.

 

Franconia 2011 part two

 More Franconia, with a visit to Barnikel Brauerei in Frensdorf and Gold-Ochsenbrauerei in Spielbach. Along with a walk through Rothenburg ob der Tauber. 

Franconia 2011 video

A short video about a trip to Franconia in 2011. Starting in Schlenkerla in Bamberg and ending in the Kellers of St Georgen and Löwenbräu in Buttenheim. With a special appearance of a Father's Day cart.

And for those of you who like my "electro-thrash" music, the soundtrack is Hippy Hop.

 

Down the pub with Andrew

I went over to Utrecht last week with Andrew. To meet Robbie Pickering for a couple of beers. I hadn't been there for ages. 2016, maybe.

The approach to the city, at least from Utrecht Centraal, is almost as awful as in its last iteration. The bridge to the dreadful shopping centre has gone. Now there's a small outdoor stretch. Before entering the maze of the dreadful shopping centre.

"Remember the route so we can find our way back." Andrew wisely advised.

But I digress. I really wanted to talk about my time down the pub with Andrew.

I started him young. While still strapped into a pushchair. I realised fully the advantage in that once he was a little older. And would regularly make a dash for freedom while my back was turned in Cafe Belgique. Often almost making it to Nieuwe Dijk before I caught him. I'm sure he would have made his own way back eventually. If he hadn't been kidnapped or something.

The nut machine, where you put in a coin and turned a knob, would usually keep him quiet for as couple of minutes. Though it could work out pricey. Depending on how desperate for peace I was. And how hungry he was.

We first visited Bavariia together just a little later. When he was six. For him: a visit to the railway museum in Nuremberg and a ride on the heritage railway in the Fränkische Schweiz. For me: well, all the lovely pubs in the Fränkische Schweiz. And Annafest.

It was my first time there. And I made the mistake of having a couple of beers before arriving. So many beers to try. And only in litre measures. I was I had Andrew to prop me up the way back down the hill. Him being so tall did come in handy sometimes. Then his fascination with trains made sure we got the right one back to Bamberg and our hotel. 

No wonder I still travel with him.

Bamberg

I’ve most of the day to myself. Giving me time to nip across to Bamberg. Cool. I don’t need to be back until the early evening,

First. Time for breakfast. We’ve committed to breakfast in the hotel again. It’s cheaper than at the last place. How will it stand up?

There’s nothing hot, other than tea and coffee. At least you get a pot of them. The cold cuts are rather sparse, too.

“They’re proper bakers’ rolls, at least.” Dolores says, slicing open an irregular brown roll.

“But no bacon. Breakfast isn’t breakfast without bacon.”

“Not worth the money.” Dolores always keeps a close eye on the budget.

With the new day, a wifi connection has appeared. I check my mail. I’m busy with arrangements for a trip to Chicago a couple of days after I get back from Germany.

I jump on a train just after midday. With a Private Eye and a special “cola” drink. I’ve made sure to take the one direct train an hour. It’s not that crowded, as it’s a Saturday. No Schoolkids.

It’s ages since I was last in Bamberg. 2013, when I was on an Annafest trip with Andrew. Even discounting two pandemic years, that’s a long time. With all the US trips I’ve been on, I couldn’t squeeze in long German visits.

Rumbling through the little towns and wooded hills of Franconia is very soothing. And thirst inducing. Just as well I came prepared.

First destination is Fässla. It’s easy to find from the station. At least that’s what I thought. I manage to go the wrong way. That’s ten minutes of pub time lost.

Fässla is quite crowded. I have to sit in the Schwemme. Not to worry. Soon there’s a Lagerbier in my hand.

It’s pretty good. Clean, simple and very drinkable. There’s a hint of tobacco in the flavour, I guess from German hops. Balanced and “süffig” as the Germans say.

Now here’s a beer that I’ve never been able to pigeonhole stylistically. Lagerbier. I get that’s just the strength – but why is it amber? Amber Lagerbier, I suppose. I just can’t think of any other examples.

Not much seems to have changed in the decade since I was last in Bamberg. At least in Fässla. They still have the fake barrels. They’ve always irked. Especially, as on my first visit they had real barrels.

After a couple of Lagerbiers, I move onto Zwergla, the Dunkles. Only bottled, sadly. To be honest, it’s not that different from Lagerbier. A little hint of dark malt, maybe. Or maybe not. It isn’t really scratching that Dunkles itch.

Looking back on my life, it’s a bit like the hero’s in Obyčejný život (An Ordinary Life), one of my favourite novels. Dull and ordinary mostly, but with odd special bits. Moments when I’ve been blown around by the winds of history. It could have been a lot worse.

My plan was to visit Spezial next. But can see the shutters are shut even before I leave Fässla. What the fuck? What pub closes early on Saturday afternoon? Time for Plan B. Where to go next?

This might sound like heresy. I decide it’s not worth walking all the way to Schlenkerla. It’s 3 PM and it will probably be packed. Plus, I have decent access to their beers. Much as I love the beer and pub, my time can be better spent.

Sternla is my choice. I whittled away a hot summer afternoon in their beer garden once. A happy memory. Since, a brewery has been installed. Two good reasons to drop by.

I only get a table because there’s a later reservation. It’s pretty lively. There’s a group of older blokes on the next table which is pretty excited. They must have been here a while.

The menu lists two of their own beers: Export and Märzen. Obviously, I go for the latter. 13º. I thought it had to be 13.5º to 14º in Bavaria. Have they changed the rules, or do I just have it wrong?

All academic, as it’s off. Export it is then. 12.8º Plato, 5.1% ABV Not just unfiltered, positively murky. Tastes OK. If a bit yeasty. I suppose that freshens it up. Maybe. It’s not long before a second appears. Well, after I ask for it. Not magically.

The middle-aged men on the next table are getting enthusiastically stuck into shots. Dangerously enthusiastically for a Saturday afternoon. Especially as he shots don’t seem to be dampening their enthusiasm for beer much.

I can’t have too many. I have a train to catch. Must get back to Kulmbach on time. I pick up a sarnie in the station. I've sort of forgotten to eat.



Brauerei Fässla
Ob. Königstraße 1921,
96052 Bamberg.
https://www.faessla.de/


Brauhaus Zum Sternla
Lange Str. 46,
96047 Bamberg.
http://www.sternla.de/

Kulmbach

After a bit of a deliberation, we bought breakfast when we checked in. Let’s see what it’s like.

Dolores goes first. She’s disappointed.

“They only have a couple of different sorts of meat and cheese. Not worth the money.”

But I can smell bacon. Around the back of the breakfast bar there’s one of those stainless-steel hot food thingies. In it are scrambled egg, bacon and sausages. I pile my plate with the first two.

“Where did you find that?”

“Around the back.”

For me, the breakfast is OK. Not great, but good enough. Dolores is distinctly less happy.

We trundle our trolley bags down to the station in time for a quick visit to Lidl. To take back some empties and stock up for the journey. Dolores is very well organised. I wait and guard the luggage. Luckily, seated in one of the few benches.

Our train is a fairly small diesel. And quite full. Just as well Dolores is with me to grab seats. She’s such a helpful travelling companion.

I’ve prepared a train drink. Cheap bourbon and diet cola. In a half litre cola bottle. Mmm. Warming.

“Don’t go crazy with that, Ronald. It’s strong.”

“When did I ever go crazy?”

You can guess what happened next.

The railway follows the Pegnitz. I’ve been down this way before. Years ago with Anti-American Mike.

“Look at that castle, Dolores.” It is dead impressive. It looks familiar. Then I spot the Kaiser brewery. In know where this is. It’s Neuhaus. Home to a Zoigl that isn’t called Zoigl. Doesn’t have a name at all, actually.

I say “is” home. Was would be more accurate. The communal brewhouse has been converted into a house. A shame, because it was a really good and distinctive beer. Though the flies in the beer garden were dead annoying.

We’re changing in Bayreuth. We arrive a little late, still with plenty of time to make the connection. The platform is packed with schoolkids. Who all tip onto the slightly larger diesel with us. I’m lucky to get a seat.

“Out in the sticks, the buses are mostly run for schoolchildren. Often me and Anti-American Mike were the only adults on the bus.”

“That must have been weird.”

“Well, I did feel a little self-conscious tucking into impulse Schnapps.” It didn’t stop me, though.

Picking the wrong way to walk to the hotel, we have to sprint over a main road with our bags. More excitement than I need. The hotel is over the road from the huge conical fermenters of the Kulmbacher Brauerei.

No matter hard we try, we can’t connect to the wifi network. Dolores has a word with the bloke on reception. Who gets a colleague to do some resetting. It doesn’t help. We give up and head into town.

It doesn’t take long. Kulmbach isn’t a large town. Dolores is slightly disappointed, despite it being fairly scenic.

“I expected it to be older.”

I can’t see what she’s complaining about. From the compact market place there’s a great view of the castle literally towering over the town. 

“Every town in Franconia has a castle.” I remark. At least that’s how it seems.

Pubs are thin on the ground. Fortunately, the bloke in the hotel gave Dolores a map, on which he marked the town’s few pubs.

One just off the market square, Zum Petz, is open. A couple of smokers are sitting outside. Inside, a couple of people are on the Stammtisch. Not very lively.

It’s a small, old-fashioned looking place, Like a miniature beer hall with leaded windows, panelled walls and pine-topped tables. Small, but perfectly formed.

Inevitably, the beer is from Kulmbacher Brauerei. In the form of Monschof. They do have Kellerbier, though. We order two. It tastes very fresh and the heavy carbonation creates an almost banked head. Better than I expected.

A tourist couple wanders in and orders food. Now we’re not totally alone, other than the landlord’s mates. Which is nice.

Dolores being keen to see a bit more of the town, we leave after just the one. Heading in the direction of another pub marked on the map. Off the market place, the streets are pretty empty. Scenic, but rather lifeless.

The town centre is mostly sort-of pedestrianised. It all looks like pavement, except occasional cars roll past. That’s nice and confusing.

Halfway down a somnolent street is another small pub, Zur Birke. It’s in a similar style to the last place. Not quite so worn in, mind. The wood hasn’t had time to turn to that lovely shade of dark brown. “Nappy brown” as our ancestors would have so colourfully described it.

The sign outside proclaims Kulmbacher, totally unsurprisingly. But when I ask the friendly waitress what they have on draught, she tells me that they have a Dunkles from Krug Bräu, a small brewery in the Fränkische Schweiz. Oooh, that sounds good.

It’s a seductive dark amber, with a fat fluffy head. It certainly looks the part. And it is. Packed with deep malt flavours.

“I’m pretty sure I’ve had this before, Dolores. Good, isn’t it?”

“Lovely.” Dolores is drinking the same as me for once. She does like a good beer. She is German, after all.

With an early evening appointment, there’s no time for a second beer. Which is a shame.




Restaurant Zum Petz
Langgasse 3,
95326 Kulmbach.


Gasthaus zur Birke
Fischergasse 17,
95326 Kulmbach.
https://www.zur-birke-kulmbach.de/

Nuremberg

Dolores hasn’t flown for a while. I imagine her slowly recalling all the little things that make flying so much fun. Like endless queueing and endless walking. We’re getting plenty of both.

At least we didn’t have to queue to get into the terminal. Like last time with the kids. What a pain in the arse that was. One reason we’re here more than four hours before departure. That and Schiphol advising to turn up at least three hours in advance.

No bags to check. I remember the piles of bags lying around all over the place last time I was here. But I do ask the priority check in agent where we need to go for security.  I show her our boarding cards so she can see our destination. Bad idea.

Seeing Dolores doesn’t have special status, she has to go through standard security. Fuck. They definitely didn’t use to do this.  Though they did in July when I travelled with the kids. What an annoying fucking policy.

“I should complain.” I tell Dolores. I really fucking should.

I ask another KLM person; “Where’s non-priority security? They won’t let my wife go through the priority lane.”

She rolls her eyes and says: “Those stupid people. Take the lift there. There probably won’t be any staff about at the top.”

Which turns out to be perfectly true.  It’s more crowded than usual. But nothing compared to the general side. Based on past bitter experiences, it looks like a 45-60 minute wait. So glad we dodged that one.

Being Schengen-bound, we dodge another queue. Passport control. For the first time, I’m packing only my Dutch one. Which feels a little odd. Never travelled without a UK passport.

An early arrival has a big upside: lots of time in the lounge.

“I wonder where it is? I usually go to the non-Schengen one.”

It’s not that difficult to find. Soon we’re inside and looking for seats. Not that easy, given how busy it is. I let Dolores take the lead. Years of train travel in the DDR honed her skills in elbowing through crowds and grabbing a seat.

“Reviews rate this lower than the other lounge.” I say.

“I can’t see much difference.”

“Me neither. Where’s the bar?”

After bringing back her wine, I tell Dolores: “There’s one big advantage this place has: self-service drinks. None of that “singles only” for me here. It’s trebles all round.”
“Don’t go crazy, Ronald.”

“When have I ever?”

“Hmmpfh” She makes that funny noise which somehow manages to convey contempt, pity, incredulity, scorn and a tiny hint of amusement.

I’m not impressed with the food. None of the hot stuff looks very appetising. On the other hand, I can pour myself as much whisky as I want. I know which lounge is the winner for me.

We lounge around for the hours until our flight. Nibbling at the odd bit of cold food. Quite relaxing. For an airport experience.

Like good little passengers, we troll up to our gate 30 minutes before scheduled departure. Which is still being shown “as scheduled” on the displays. Even though that’s clearly not true. The inbound aircraft hasn’t arrived. No way we’re leaving in half an hour.

It’s an hour. A win, in my book. I’ve had so, so much worse. Like the receding into the distance time, which gets two hours later for every hour that passes. Resembling a weird time disturbance that defies the laws of physics.

The flight is, like all flights, a limbo between two states of being. Outside, yet still filled with, time. A dull period needing to be endured. When I’m on my own. Now, I’ve got Dolores to chat with.

I get a diet cola, rather than a red wine, Dolores has a beer.

No checked in luggage and no passport control has us looking for the U-Bahn station. And it’s right there. Because this is Germany and they locate stations right next to the terminals.

Our hotel is just a couple of hundred metres from the main station. We’re leaving by rail tomorrow. It makes sense to be close to the station.

By the time we’re checked in and sorted out, it’s past seven PM.  Getting around food time. First, however, we pop back to the station. To the Lidl we spotted earlier. For drinks and stuff. I grab a couple of cans of Perlenbacher Strong Lager. Then notice some non-brand bourbon. And it’s under ten euros. I can’t pass that up.

Now it’s time to eat. There’s a brewpub directly opposite called Mautkeller. In this ancient building with a huge roof. I went there years ago. A fairly dull German brewpub, as I recall. Helles, Dunkles, Weizen. That sort of place. Now it’s owned by the large local brewery, Tucher.

The enormous vaulted beerhall basement seems much as I can remember it. Unless I’m just assuming it used to be similar. The structure, at least, much be unchanged. And that’s impressive.

I order an unfiltered Urbräu Helles, brewed on the premises. While Dolores has a Weissbier.

When they arrive, I realise my mistake. I didn’t point at the menu when I ordered. I just said “Urbräu Helles”. Turns out That’s also the name of the standard Tucher Helles. Not exactly exciting, but pleasant enough.

What else could I order but Nürnberger Bratwurst? You can get 6, 9 or 12. I choose the middle option. But contemplate a full dozen.

Half way through, I’m so glad I didn’t. The little buggers are more filling than you think. Nine have me stuffed. So stuffed, we only have the one beer.

We have an early night. Trains to catch tomorrow.



Tucher Mautkeller Nürnberg
Hallpl. 2,
90402 Nürnberg.
https://tucher-mautkeller.de/

Missing Franconia

While pondering Dark Lager recently, I reminded myself of how long it's been since I last visited Bavaria. And how much I missed its delicious Lagers.

Looking back on all the great times I've had in Bavaria, I realised an overwhelming number of them were in just one part of the state. Franconia.

When did I first visit this magical region?  A long, long time ago. Well before the kids were born. When Dolores and I were fancy free and could pretty much wherever we wanted. And whenever we wanted. So, sometime in the early 1990s.

It wasn't a particularly long trip, just a long weekend. We flew into Nuremberg and took the train up to Bamberg. Where else would you start a a Franconian beer tour?

Bamberg was a very different place back then I can remember remarking to Dolores that  it was amazing such a beautiful city seemed to have no tourists, other than us. Beer tourism wasn't much of a thing back then. And the river cruises hadn't started dumping flocks of pensioners in the city. What a magical place it was.

We stayed in Fässla. Very handy not just for its own pub, but also Spezial opposite. I'm pretty sure that's one of the main reasons I chose to stay there.

I've always thought Fässla's beers have been a bit neglected by beer nerds. Perhaps because none are smoked. That didn't bother me. I loved them from the first sip. I helped that the draught beer was sold Bayerischer Anstich - straight from the cask. Sadly, the barrels are now fake. 

I've still had plenty of good times there. Like a morning session next to a group of firemen who, hopefully, were there after rather than before their shift. Or a visit with Jeff Bell on one of Andy Neil's beer tours. And, obviously, I dropped by a couple of times when travelling around Franconia with anti-American Mike, in 2009 and 2020.

Of course, it wasn't long before me and Dolores dropped by Schlenkertla to get a taste of their legendary smoked beer. It's often said that you need to sink a few pints before you get a taste for it. I loved it from the first sip. It helped that it had the soft carbonation of gravity dispense.

I must have visited the pub at least half a dozen times. It's one of the places I have to go to, when I'm in town. Last time was in 2013, when me and Andrew made a trip to Franconia. That was the second time I'd taken Andrew there. We'd also made a trip in 2003, when he was just seven. It was much more fun when he could drink.

Me and Dolores didn't just stay in Bamberg. We also took the short train ride to Forchheim. Where I encountered for the first time when of my favourite brewery taps: Neder.How many happy hours I've spent in the town. But more about that next time.

Franconian goodness

It's been far too long since I've been to Franconia. Happily, Franconia came to me.

In the form of the Franconian Anstich Fest at Butcher's Tears last weekend. Lots of lovely Franconian beers, served the way god intended: straight from the cask. And they had Monchsambacher. Such wonderful stuff.

The older I've got, the less I've enjoyed most beer festivals. Too may people, too many beers, too few seats. Thankfully, none of those failings apply to the festivals held at Butcher's tears. And there's no travelling involved, other than a 15-minute walk. 

I love Lager. I've said it many times, but it bears repeating. Good Lagers, I mean. Brewed the old-fashioned way and served up without too much fizz.

I almost forgot one of my other pet hates at beer festivals: tiny glasses. You can fuck off serving me 10 cl or even 15 cl. That's why I used to take my own pint glass to the Borefts festival. I don't want 20 mouthfuls of beer I'll never remember. I want to give each beer the respect it deserves. Which, unless it's super-strong, is at least a half litre. Then again, I've be known to drink Imperial Stout by the pint.

A great festival, just hope they do another.

Kulmbacher Export 1878 - 1929

A quick post in Kulmbacher, prompted by a Twitter discussion.

First, some hard facts:

Kulmbacher Export 1878 - 1929
Year	Brewer	Beer	OG	FG	ABV	App. Atten-uation
1878	Aktien-Brauerei	Export	1072.9	1022.0	6.61	69.82%
1878	Export-Brauhaus	Export	1059.0	1016.0	5.59	72.88%
1878	Puszta	Export Dunkel	1053.2	1018.2	4.53	65.79%
1879	Eberlein	Export	1070.5	1024.0	6.03	65.96%
1879	Export-Brauhaus	Export	1062.8	1019.3	5.64	69.24%
1879	Kulmbacher Aktien-Br.	Export	1054.5	1017.4	4.80	68.07%
1879	Pätz	Export	1067.5	1021.4	5.98	68.27%
1879	Rizzi	Export	1065.5	1013.2	6.84	79.85%
1879	Sandler	Export	1064.9	1018.2	6.08	71.96%
1884	Aktien-Export-Brauhaus	dunkeles Export	1067.6	1025.9	5.39	61.69%
1884	Export-Brauhaus	Export	1063.5	1023.0	5.24	63.78%
1884	Export-Brauhaus	Export	1063.5	1023.0	5.24	63.78%
1884	Kulmbacher Actien	Export	1068.1	1025.1	5.39	61.56%
1884	Unknown	Export	1052.6	1020.2	4.19	61.60%
1884	Unknown	dunkeles Export	1061.9	1024.0	4.90	61.23%
1885	Kulmbacher	Export	1072.3	1029.8	5.48	57.10%
1887	Kulmbacher	Export	1062.3	1017.5	5.81	70.59%
1890	Aktienexportbierbrauerei	Dunkles	1080.4	1029.2	6.63	63.67%
1890	Kulmbacher	Export	1062.6	1022.8	5.00	63.58%
1891	Aktien-Brauerei	Export	1062.7	1015.5	6.15	75.28%
1891	Aktien-Brauerei	Export	1068.6	1026.2	5.48	61.81%
1891	Unknown	dunkeles Exportbier	1067.6	1023.0	5.78	65.98%
1893	Aktien-Export-Brauerei	dunkeles Exportbier	1076.9	1025.8	6.63	66.45%
1898	Erste Kulmbacher Export-Bierbrauerei	Exportbier	1077.1	1033.6	5.61	56.42%
1898	Unknown, Kulmbach	Dunkles Kulmbacher	1072.3	1029	5.58	59.86%
1929	Kulmbacher Sandlerbraeu	Dunkles	1062.6	1015.8	6.05	74.76%
Sources:
König, J (1903), Bier in Chemie der menschlichen Nahrungs- und Genussmittel by Joseph König, 1903, pp 1101 - 1156, Julius Springer, Berlin.
Wahl & Henius, pages 823-830
Handbuch der chemischen technologie by Otto Dammer, Rudolf Kaiser, 1896, pages 696-697
Brockhaus' konversations-lexikon, Band 2 by F.A. Brockhaus, 1898
Beer from the Expert's Viewpoint by Arnold Spencer Wahl and Robert Wahl, 1937, page 166.

Now a recipe that was brewed for the Urban Chestnut historic Lager Festival:

1879 Kulmbacher Export
Munich malt 20L	15.25 lb	96.83%
Carafa III	0.50 lb	3.17%
Hallertau 60 mins	3.50 oz
Hallertau 30 mins	3.50 oz
OG	1065
FG	1018
ABV	6.22
Apparent attenuation	72.31%
IBU	80
SRM	30
Mash Kulmbach method
Boil time	90 minutes
pitching temp	48º F
Yeast	WLP830 German Lager

The Kulmbach method of decoction
Another Bavarian method of decoction from Otto (("Handbuch der Chemischen Technologie: Die Bierbrauerei" by Dr. Fr. Jul. Otto, published in 1865, page 128).

As soon as the water in the kettle reaches 50º C, as much as is needed is put into the mash tun to dough in.

After an hour, when the rest of the water has come to the boil in the kettle, this is added to the mash. The temperature of the mash should be 53.75 - 56.25º C. A small amount of water should remain in the kettle so that the temperature of the mash is correct. Or a small amount of cold water is added to the mash. When, after resting, the wort in the mash tun has cleared, this is run off and boiled in the kettle. After just a few minutes boiling, this Lauter mash is added back to the tun and mashed for 45 minutes. The temperature of the mash should be 71.25 - 72.5º C.

Usually a small quantity of wort is left in the kettle and boiled with all the hops for 10 to 12 minutes (hopfenrösten).

The mash in the tun is left to rest for 90 minutes, then it is drawn off and added to the kettle where it interrupts the rösten.

The wort from the first lot of cold water poured over the grains is usually used for topping up the kettle.

Bavaria memories

Remembering one of my last trips to Bavaria.

See how many locations you can identify.

Franconian Anstich Fest

I'm turning into a right lazy git in my old age. Turning? If I'm honest, I've always been a lazty git. How much I could have achieved with a little more diligence.

For someone as lethargic as me, the Franconian Anstich Fest on Saturday was perfect, being just around the corner, at Butcher's Tears. The closest brewery to my house by quite a way. Not that I would have missed a chance to drink gravity-served Franconian beer. A rare treat. I'd even have endured the tourist hell that is the city centre for some of that lovely Franconian stuff.

Persuading Dolores to tag along was easy enough. "None of that weird modern junk, just proper drinking beer." I guaranteed her. I know the sort of stuff she likes. And it isn't beer that looks like orange juice.

Just half an after kickoff, we turned up. Which meant we got seats. A little later and we'd have struggled. Heartening, as I wanted the event to be a success. Because then it might be repeated. And I could slurp back more of that lovely German beer.

No dicsussion about where to start: Monchsambacher Lagerbier. I've only had it once before and it blew me away. And that was after several days drinking top-class Franconian beer. Big one for me, small one for Dolores. It didn't disappoint.

Gradl Leupser Dunkel next. Man, what a lovely drinking beer. It did that suicidal thing where it threw itself down my throat before I could stop it. Best have another just to make sure of it delightfulness.

"What do youi fancy next, Dolores?"

"The Helles."

It's Schlenkerla Helles. "You do realise that's a smoked beer?" I warn.

"I'll have something else, then."

"It's not really smoky. Just a tiny little bit."

Graham Povery confirmed its very slight smokiness. I'm not sure believed me. Dolores took his word for it and got a half..

"See, not really smoky, is it?"

"No, not like that horrible bacon beer." Praise indeed.

I finished with another Gradl Dunkel. Such a lovely beer. Not even heard of it before.

A really great little festival. And only €4.50 for a half litre. Early to say this, but it might well be one of the highlights of my year.

Nürnberg area Export 1878 – 1891

As promised, Exports from around Nuremberg. How will they differ from those from around Munich?

As with the beers from Bavaria’s capital, there’s a considerable variation in gravity. The weakest aren’t much over 12º Plato, while the strongest are over 16º Plato, and would be classified as Bockbier today. The ABV is all over the place, too, varying from under 4% to over 7%.

I’m slightly intrigued that there are more examples from Erlangen than Nuremberg, despite it being a smaller town.

Nürnberg area Export 1878 - 1891
Year	Brewer	Town	Beer	OG Plato	OG	FG	ABV	App. Atten-uation	Acidity
1878	A. Schelle	Erlangen	Export	13.82	1055.9	1017.5	4.98	68.69%	0.12
1878	Niklass	Erlangen	Export	12.87	1051.9	1019.0	4.25	63.39%	0.19
1878	Erich	Erlangen	Export	13.84	1056.0	1016.0	5.19	71.43%
1878	Henninger	Erlangen	Export	14.24	1057.7	1020.0	4.88	65.34%
1879	Niklass	Erlangen	Export	14.28	1057.9	1021.0	4.78	63.73%
1883	Henninger	Erlangen	Export	15.16	1061.7	1018.5	5.60	69.99%	0.366
1884	Unknown	Erlangen	Export	15.45	1062.9	1023.2	5.14	63.12%	0.07
1884	Henninger	Erlangen	mittelfarbiges Export	16.09	1065.7	1017.0	6.34	74.12%	0.142
1884	Henninger	Erlangen	helles Export	14.00	1056.7	1014.1	5.54	75.13%	0.127
1884	Carl Niklass	Erlangen	helles Export	13.44	1054.3	1020.5	4.36	62.25%	0.108
1885	Erich	Erlangen	Export	13.09	1052.8	1018.0	4.50	65.91%	0.198
1891	Henninger	Erlangen	Export	14.24	1057.7	1020.3	4.84	64.82%
1878	Robby	Nürnberg	Export	12.94	1052.2	1015.8	4.71	69.73%	0.21
1878	Unknown	Nürnberg	Bayerisches Export-Bier	16.90	1069.2	1014.0	7.21	79.77%
1879	Aktien-Brauerei	Nürnberg	Export	15.11	1061.5	1017.2	5.75	72.01%	0.23
1879	Unknown	Nürnberg	Export	14.73	1059.8	1018.4	5.38	69.23%	0.23
1884	Unknown	Nürnberg	Exportbier	15.73	1064.1	1022.9	5.33	64.27%	0.02
1885	Tucher'sches	Nürnberg	Export	12.38	1049.8	1019.2	3.95	61.45%	0.175
1886	Aktien-Brauerei	Nürnberg	Export	12.87	1051.9	1017.9	4.40	65.51%	0.108
	Average			14.27	1057.9	1018.4	5.11	67.89%	0.164
Source:
König, J (1903), Bier in Chemie der menschlichen Nahrungs- und Genussmittel by Joseph König, 1903, pp 1101 - 1156, Julius Springer, Berlin.

Here are the Munich Export averages:

OG Plato	OG	FG	ABV	App. Atten-uation	Acidity
14.07	1057	1020.3	4.75	64.44%	0.275

Not a huge difference, except that the Nuremberg beers are more highly attenuated and slightly higher in gravity.

Another new Amsterdam pub

I'm sure I've already mentioned this. I'm struggling to keep up with developments in amsterdam's beer scene. So I wasn't surprised when Mike told me of another new opening.

And a more interesting one than most for me. None of that craft bollocks here. This place combines two of my favourite things: Franconian beer and Dutch jenever.Why has no-one ever thought of that before? You sort of had it for a while in Wildeman, but that's become more of a blur than a focus as the more modern end of Dutch beer has crept in.

Kelkje is operated by people with a pedigree. The father runs Nieuwe Diep distillery and imports Franconian beer. The son, Tin Janssens runs 't Kelkje.

There's a story behind the name. Because it's the Dutch translation of U Kalicha: Svejk's local in Prague. Appropriately, the one non-German draught beer is Czech, from Konrad. Tlking ow which, you' probably like to know what else is pouring. Keesmann Herrenpils, Mahr's Ungespündet plus one rotating tap. At just €2.80 for 25 cl., it's barely more expensive than a glass of Heineken.

I'm getting worried about jenever. It seems to be getting noticed. Which is bollocks. One of the things I love about it are the very reasonable prices. Compared to whisky and other spirits. A very pleasant 1 year will only set you back €3.10, a 3 year €4.20, a 5 year €5.30 and a 10 year €7.90. I call that effing cheap.

I've always liked their Rogge (rye) jenever, both when it was marketed as Janssens and now as Nieuwe Diep. I treated myself to a couple of the 3 year. Spicy, complex and with that alcoholy kick which is the whole point of spirits.

Almost forgot. They have the full Schlenkerla range it bottles. I reckon €5 a pop for a half litre of Eiche isn't a bad deal. But don't expect to find any Eiche there now. I finished off their stock. No more until next year.

Pleasant, simple a really nice pub. And sort of in the Red Light district. Those red curtains on the upstairs windows are a bit of a giveaway.  But in a strangely quiet spot, despite being just 50 metres from Damstraat (technically Oude Doelenstraat at that point).

Who could fail to love this poster?

Or these windows?

A dead handy addition to the pub scene here. The one I've got most excited about for a while. Cynical old bastard that I am. And look: there's a doctor telling me I should drink beer. Who am I to argue?




't Kelkje
Ouderzijds Achterburgwal 164.
1012 DW Amsterdam.