J.C Jacobsen discusses IPA

A special treat today. With a discussion with the Burton method of brewing IPA.

Starting with something about the weird way IPA was aged.

Monday Evening 22 March 1869
Dear Carl!
I still cannot get over my astonishment at your strange statement in your previous letter about the way in which the ale is stored in small casks in the open air, exposed to all changes of temperature. I had seen from your previous letters that Younger had no deep storage cellars, but I assumed that this was due to the fact that they were not equipped to brew ale of any importance for export. But that the world-famous and excellent Pale Ale and India Ale from Bass in Burton are treated so nonchalantly - I had no idea of ​​that, and that such a thing can be done is beyond my understanding, for it contradicts everything I have experienced and read about the tendency of wine-like drinks to spoil. There must necessarily be something special that protects this miraculous ale; but what is it?

I'm with Jacobsen senior on this one. Bass Pale Ale was racked into hogsheads, which were then stcked in the brewery yard, open to the elements. I was reluctant to believe this at first, Thinking someone had just misinterpreted empty casks being store in the yard. It's only after I found multiple reputable sources that I believed it.

What was protecting IPA? I think it was Brettanomyces. Which was slowly eating up any remaining sugars. This is also what protected IPA during its long voyage to India. During the year spent in the brewery yard Brettanomyces would have consumed pretty much all remaining sugars. Leaving nothing for anything nasty to eat.

Jacobsen senior then asks some very relevant questions.

Has ale for export to the Indians always been treated in this way? And wasn't Export Ale formerly much stronger than now and, like the strong wines, Port and Madeira, somewhat protected? - Don't you think that at some stage sulphuric acid is added in a very different form? -I have recently read somewhere a note on the use of sulphuric lime as a preservative for beer and wine, but I have never had any confidence in the innumerable recipes for preservatives, etc. and therefore have hitherto neglected this last one.- But now I can't help but think about it and I have let Kogsbølle - who is just as astonished as I am - order a portion of sulphuric lime, with which we would make a few small experiments this spring and test its effect in the following months until next year.- - But all foreign additions are strictly prohibited in England and where beer production is so enormous, the smallest dose of additive would have to amount to a quantum, the acquisition and use of which could not possibly be concealed from the workers and therefore not be kept secret. Be careful, though! - Especially after the main fermentation is over; in the clarification tanks and by the bottling from there into the storage barrels, and by the addition of "dry hops" to these. How are the storage barrels treated to extract the taste of the oak? and how is the bottling of export ale into bottles and kegs? - Are you sure that it is all kinds of ale - also export ale - that in Burton is lying in the open air. By the way, I also do not understand why the ale is allowed to be stored in such small barrels; it is, however, extremely inconvenient and increases the influence of heat. How can carbon dioxide be kept in the beer? - Is not sugar added when bottling for sale to make the beer sparkling? etc, etc, etc.

I wish I knew the answers. When and why did they start ageing IPA in the brewery yard? It seems such a counterintuitive process. And did any other brewers in Burton do the same? It sounds as if it was a general process rather than something limited to just Bass.

I'm pretty well 100% sure than Bass wasn't adding any type of preservative. Heavy hopping and Brettanomyces were enough to protect the beer from infection.

Of course, the storage casks didn't need to be treated as they were made of Memel oak, which wouldn't have imparted any oak flavour.

Why was the beer aged in Hogsheads? Because that was what it was going to be shipped in. Either to UK bottlers or onto ships for export. CO2 wasn't kept in the beer. It was even deliberately flattened before being loaded onto ships. It was given conditioning by a secondary conditioning after bottling. For which, as Jacobsen guesses, sugar was added at bottling time. It would have to be as there was nothing feermentable left in the beer when it arrived in India.

And, yes, both domestic and export IPA was stored out in the yard. 

J.C. Jocobsen writes again

More correspondence from Jacobsen. Because you lot seem to like this stuff. This time two short letters.

The first shows how keen Jacobsen senior was on finding out more details about brewing in Burton.

1869-03-02
Dear Carl!
Since I conclude from your letter to your mother, which came yesterday, that you choose the "Boring" of returning to Younger; perhaps in the very next days, I would not have written until I knew where you were, but since your loving mother cannot rest until she has sent a letter, which she wrote to you today, and has on her own responsibility decided to send it to Burton, I must also add a few lines in case they meet you in Burton. I would simply remind you that by making the acquaintance of the young brewers' sons in Strasbourg, you got into the Erhards'. Don't you think something similar was possible in Burton, if you stayed there for some time? Even if you could not become a formal apprentice in one of the larger breweries, there could be a lot of information to be gained by constantly living with young people who are employed in the breweries and if you could visit them once in a while you could also see a thing or two. But this can also happen in the autumn, if you only get there then. But dear Carl, you must overcome your indifference to the English language, it is high time!

So, if Jacobsen junior couldn't get an apprenticeship in Burton, he could just hang around the town and get to know brewers' sons. Not sure how successful that was likely to be. It seems like a plan mostly based on hope. And he should get on with improving his English.

The second doesn't have an exact date, just the year. It discusses the difference between fermentation at Younger and at Burton.

1869
Among the points I would like you to note, I remember at the moment: To note the difference in the degree of fermentation in the Fermenting Vessels at Edinburgh and Burton.- You will remember that at Burton no yeast is separated in the fermenting vessels, but first in the Union casks, whereas at the Abbey the yeast is obtained from the Fermenting Tubs and only a little from the Cleansing Squares. In Edinburgh the fermentation is thus interrupted during the development of the yeast. Why? Were the method of knocking the foam and yeast down into the fermenting vessels used elsewhere than at Younger? Were the ale fermenting vessels at Younger provided with high walls with a door with shutters to retain the foam, as in the Porter Breweries, or are they entirely open, as in Burton? Have you any records of the City Brewery at Edinburgh and of the City of London Brewery? - I have none. 

Could you not dry a portion of Younger's and send me so that I could make a comparative analysis with my malt?. How concentrated is the solution of double sulphuric lime, with which yeast at Abbey is rinsed? - If it is sold, then take down the address and send me a can or small cask of it. 

Is "Finings" - isinglas - used at Younger's or is it the landlord's business? Do you know the procedure with that? For export beer it is used is it not? Do they use the yeast for the addition as fresh and foamy at Younger's as we saw it at Bass's?

Obviously, they would harvest the yeast from the union sets in Burton. Propagating healthy yeast was one of the main reasons for using unions. Younger, on the other hand, where they were clearly using a dropping system, yeast was harvested earlier, before the beer was dropped to the settling square. Though this didn't apply to most of Younger's Pale Ales, which were brewed in their Holyrood brewery. That was fitted out with union sets.

Interesting question about the finings. I happen to know that in the 1970s, Scottish & Newcastle, i.e. Younger, sent out their cask beer unfined. The dad of one of my brother's school friends ran a pub that sold Younger's IPA. Once it was clearing well and he rang up the brewery. They suggested that he try adding finings.

Quite often in the 19th century fining was left to the publican. Gradually, brewers starting fining at racking time. For the simple reason that they didn't trust landlords to do it properly.
 

More Carlsberg correspondence

Or, more accurately, Jacobsen correspondence. This time, from Jacobsen Senior to Jacobsen junior. Dated 22nd March 1869.

After some time at William Younger, Carl Jacobsen went to Burton to try to get an apprenticeship at one of the large Burton breweries. Without any luck. And then returned to Edinburgh.

I see from the lines you sent me from Burton that you have now returned to Edinburgh, which I also assume is most correct, as it appears from your letters that, after leaving Younger, you have felt that you were not quite finished learning what you could learn there, whereby I assume that you are thinking more of the overview that is required to be able to run a manufacturing plant and this you can certainly best acquire in the establishment where you now know all the details and are also so well known to all the functionaries that you can get all the information you want. It is hardly wrong that you also, by looking back on what you have learned, have discovered that there were various little things that you could wish to know better about - and it is on these little things that ultimately it depends whether an undertaking will succeed immediately; for otherwise much time and much money will be lost before one, by "fumbling" (ed.), has found the complete articulation of the system, whereby this first becomes an organic whole that has true vitality. 

This sounds to me like at attempt to justify a possible retrograde step of returning to Younger, where  he had already spent quite some time.

Jacobsen senior was very keen on learning about how Burton Pale Ale was produced. There's a considerable amount of talk about this in the correspondence.

I now look forward to gradually receiving a continuation of your interesting report on the procedure in the Younger brewery and on the brewery's equipment, etc. I also assume that you have learned something in Burton about the fermentation and storage of their export ale, which I am very eager to learn. You may also be able to learn something through your friend through correspondence, which will give you a preliminary idea of ​​how to make the most of your stay in Burton when you return. Tell me if you spoke to Westenholz about whether he had any connection with any of the breweries in Burton. Tell me also whether you spoke to the hotelier, the former brewmaster, whose address Haagensen had given you. I cannot entirely give up hope that you may later get into one of the better breweries.

Jacobsen junior had managed to get to know one Burton brewer - Mr. Evershed. Of the brewery Evershed, one of the smaller operations in Burton. And where Jacobsen junior eventually served an apprenticeship. Clearly nit first choice. But the big boys - Bass, Allsopp and Salt - weren't interested.

In any case, it is good that you have become acquainted with Mr Evershed and, moreover, with his family, but it alarmed me, by the way, to hear that you still speak English as badly as the lady's statements suggest. I cannot urge you enough to now pursue the study of the English language, especially spoken language, journal reading, etc. systematically, that is, to set this as one of your tasks, which must be neglected just as the brewery. Now you must certainly be able to get the necessary time for it, even to take lessons from a teacher, if necessary, but you will get the best practice by constantly seeking association with English people and in this regard I would like you to live in a house where there was no Dane. Your mother and I wrote you some lines on March 2, which your mother would finally send the same day and the letter was then addressed franked to your hotel in Burton, from where I assume it was sent for you. 

For some reason, Jacobsen junior wasn't that keen on English and doesn't seem to have picked up much during his stay. Which didn't please his dad.

Here's one of the more personal bits of the letter.

Tuesday afternoon
At this moment I received your letter from Edinburgh, which pleased us a lot, not least your mother, who is extremely happy about the "happiness" you are having and about your cheerful mood.- I am also pleased about the benefit that your spiritual development will have from a fuller, social life in educated circles and I believe that this, far from harming your activity as a technician, will on the contrary increase your spiritual energy and make you better suited to work among people.

Jacobsen junior's good use of the money he was given seems to have pleased his father.

When I get to town tomorrow, I will order a bill of exchange for £100 and send it to you. It pleases me to see that you understand how to use your money with good economy without petty stinginess. When you are going to show yourself as a gentleman, you can only get out of what you are doing with a sensible and moderate use of your means. That's clear.

Finally, we get to the most interesting part of the letter.

With the next steamer to Leith, I will, according to your request, send you a half-bottle of Carlsberg beer, which I also believe is healthier for you than Ale and Porter. We drank your cup on the evening of March 2nd in all kinds of Ale and Porter that you had sent, among which we (especially Vogelius and I) preferred Bass & Co's Ale, as the noblest drink. (Do you know the % strength of Bass's pale Ale?) I had another rarity to offer my guests, namely a bottle of London Porter that was over 20 years old. I have received a couple of bottles of it from Grocer Clausen at Christianshavn, who has had a small supply lying uncorked for 20 25 years. It has no carbonation of course, but is wine-like, somewhat sour, like all Porter, but is finer and more pleasant than both the Younger and London Porter you sent me. I am keeping the other bottle of the old Porter until you get home so that you can also convince yourself with your own tongue of the possibility of keeping Porter that long. As for the two last-mentioned types of Porter, we liked the Younger best; the other tasted somewhat raw. It was perhaps too cold, however.

Descriptions of beer flavour from the 19th century are frustratingly rare. Making it dead interesting to find one. And especially of such a special, extremely old Porter. What particularly struck me was this "somewhat sour, like all Porter". I assume that he means Keeping Porter. As Running Porter wouldn't have had time to sour. 

Let's Brew Wednesday - 1901 Truman (Burton) P2 R

We’re now at Truman’s middle-strength Pale Ale. With a gravity just shy of 1060º. Though note that this is also a Runner.

Interestingly, unlike LP3 R, this isn’t all malt. Including a small quantity of sugar. Why is that? I could say that it’s to keep the colour and body light. Which was the usual reason for sugar in posh Pale Ales. Except, there’s too little sugar for it to have much impact in that respect. And there are other brews of P2 R without sugar.

The hops are the same as in the weaker Pale Ale: three types of English hops and one of Pacifics. All were from the 1899 season.

No ageing for this, of course. Just a couple of weeks of conditioning before serving. 

1901 Truman (Burton) P2 R
pale malt	13.00 lb	97.52%
No. 1 sugar	0.33 lb	2.48%
Fuggles 150 mins	2.00 oz
Cluster 150 mins	0.50 oz
Fuggles 60 mins	2.50 oz
Goldings 30 mins	2.50 oz
Goldings dry hops	0.75 oz
OG	1059
FG	1015
ABV	5.82
Apparent attenuation	74.58%
IBU	93
SRM	5
Mash at	154º F
Sparge at	170º F
Boil time	150 minutes
pitching temp	58.5º F
Yeast	WLP013 London Ale (Worthington White Shield)

 

 

Problems at Allsopp

When Allsopp was converted into a public company im the late 19th century, the shares were eagerly snapped up by investors. Anticipating regular dividends and a steady increase in the value of the shares. This was based on the success of other brewery flotations, such as Guinness, Bass and William McEwan.

But just a few years later, the brewery issued more shares to raise more capital. This should have raised red flags. Why did they need fresh capital?

Messrs. Samuel Allsopp and Sons, Limited, have issued £550,000 4 per cent, mortgage debenture stock, being part of £1,100,000, at the price of £95 per £100 stock, the trustees being Sir Nevill Lubbock, K.C.M.G., and Mr. H. Hankey Dobree. This issue was decided upon in consequence of the rapid development of the business and the extra capital required. The money will be used to pay off certain temporary loans, chiefly in connection with the purchase of properties, making advances, acquiring plant for the lager beer brewery, etc. The stock is redeemable at the option of the company after 1906 on three months’ notice at the price of £110, and is subject to the existing. £1,100,000 4.5 per cent, and £1,100,000 3.5 per cent, debentore stocks, and in the event of voluntary liquidation is repayable at £110. A trust deed specifically secures by mortgage tho breweries and freehold, leasehold, and copyhold properties, and all other assets by a Boating charge. The issue forms part of £1,100,000, which may be increased to the extent of any diminution in the two prior debenture stocks, and of any increase in the capital subscribed and paid up. The assets on the 30th June last were £6,547,000 and on the 31st December had increased to seven millions, and the profits for 1898-9 had increased from £180,000 in 1893-4 to £305,894. The two debenture stocks absorb £88,000, and the present £1,100,000, when issued, £44,000, or together £132,000.
The Brewers' Journal vol. 36 1900, April 15th 1900, page 227.

The "purchase of properties" means buying tied houses. Allsopp were slow in joining the rush to buy pubs and ended up paying over the odds. Which is why they needed more capital. They also had that fancy Lager plant to pay for.

Another article from the same date presents a slightly more realistic appraisal of the company's prospects.

The Allsopp Position.
A circular was issued to the shareholders of Messrs. Samuel Allsopp and Sons, Limited, last month, stating that the directors deemed it desirable to make the following statement:—

With regard to the general trade of the company the directors see no. cause for dissatisfaction, as the sales for the six months ending December 31st, 1899, exceeded those of any corresponding period since the formation of the company. Since January 1st there has been a slight diminution in the sales, possibly attributable to the large number of men absent from the country, and to the cold and unfavourable spring.

The lager beer plant has proved a complete success, and the installation is being increased in order to meet the growing demand.

The recent debenture issue was entirely successful, the amount being over-applied for by the public.

The policy inaugurated some years since of acquiring licensed properties for the purpose of extending the business has not in the main proved unsatisfactory. The directors, however, regret to state that some recent purchases and investments have not proved as satisfactory as was anticipated. These purchases and their development necessarily entail a present burden upon the financial resources of the company, and it will require patience and careful handling before the expected benefits can be realised.

This matter is having the serious attention of the board.

In consequence of the resignation of the late chairman, the Hon. George Allsopp, M.P., has for the present kindly consented to undertake the duties of chairman.

Mr. W. T. Western, of Messrs. Woodhead and Co., Navy agents, has recently joined the board.
The Brewers' Journal vol. 36 1900, April 15th 1900, page 272. 

Sales were down, the blame being put on poor weather and the large number of young men absent in South Africa for the Boer War.

Not so sure about the unequivocal success of the Lager brewery. As just a few years later iy would be sitting unused in Burton. And was eventually moved to the Archibald Arrol brewery in Alloa.

The company admits that some of investments hadn't paid off. I assume this is principally overpriced and underperforming tied houses.

This was just the beginnings of the fall of Allsopp. Within in a decade they'd go bust and had to be rescued through a purchase by Ind Coope.

Let's Brew - 1901 Truman (Burton) LP3 R

With the Burton Ales out of the way, we can move onto the Burton Pale Ales. With P3 being the weakest of the bunch. Weaker than most of Truman’s Mild Ales.

In terms of strength, it falls between a Light Bitter, like AK, and a full-strength Pale Ale. You could call it a sort of Victorian Ordinary Bitter.

The recipe is even simpler than for the Mild Ales. Just pale malt. Though there are the four different types of it you find in all their beers. You know the deal: two from English barley, two from Californian.

At around 13.5 lbs per quarter (336 lbs) of malt, the hopping rate is pretty high. Though lower than that of Truman’s stronger Pale Ales. It still results in a very high degree of bitterness, which comes out to (calculated) 77.5 IBU. Even today, that would count as pretty bitter.

Three types of English hops, as well as a small quantity described as “Pacifics” were employed in the copper. All were from the 1899 harvest.

The “R” suffix tells us that this was a beer sold young. To be consumed no more than a couple of weeks after racking. 

1901 Truman (Burton) LP3 R
pale malt	12.25 lb	100.00%
Fuggles 150 mins	1.50 oz
Cluster 150 mins	0.50 oz
Fuggles 60 mins	2.00 oz
Goldings 30 mins	2.00 oz
Goldings dry hops	0.50 oz
OG	1053
FG	1015
ABV	5.03
Apparent attenuation	71.70%
IBU	77.5
SRM	5
Mash at	153º F
Sparge at	170º F
Boil time	150 minutes
pitching temp	58.5º F
Yeast	WLP013 London Ale (Worthington White Shield)

 

 

Let's Brew Wednesday - 1901 Truman (Burton) No. L5 R

Now we start getting into confusing territory. As No. 5 has both Runner and Stock versions. Which means that it’s possible that the two were blended at some point. But it’s also possible that the Runner was sold straight in its mild form.

Any guesses what the recipe is? Yes, it’s a mix of four pale malts and an unknown type of sugar. Exactly the same as all the Mild Ales. With the one difference that the proportion of sugar is slightly higher.

Slightly different hops this time. Three English types all from the 1899 season. Along with a tiny amount of Hallertau from 1900.

No ageing for this beer. Though it may well have been blended with an aged beer. 

1901 Truman (Burton) No. L5 R
pale malt	15.75 lb	95.45%
No. 2 sugar	0.75 lb	4.55%
Fuggles 150 mins	2.00 oz
Fuggles 60 mins	2.00 oz
Fuggles 30 mins	1.875 oz
Hallertau 30 mins	0.125 oz
OG	1074
FG	1020.5
ABV	7.08
Apparent attenuation	72.30%
IBU	63
SRM	7
Mash at	151º F
Sparge at	170º F
Boil time	150 minutes
pitching temp	56º F
Yeast	WLP013 London Ale (Worthington White Shield)

 

 

Let's Brew - 1901 Truman (Burton) No. 6 R

You may be wondering why Truman brewed quite so many Mild Ales in Burton. As they are very similar beers and aren’t all that different in strength. Maybe they were just mirroring what Bass did.

The recipe is the same as all the other Mild Ales so far. A mix of pale malt from English and Californian barley. Along with a sugar of unspecified type. It is, in fact, identical to the Ale recipe as the two were parti-gyled together.

Er, um, what more can I say?  The hops. Two English types from 1899 and one from 1900. Just like in most of the other Mild Ales.

As a Mild, this was definitely not aged. And drunk within a week or two. 

1901 Truman (Burton) No. 6 R
pale malt	14.75 lb	96.72%
No. 2 sugar	0.50 lb	3.28%
Fuggles 150 mins	1.75 oz
Fuggles 60 mins	1.75 oz
Fuggles 30 mins	1.75 oz
OG	1067
FG	1021
ABV	6.09
Apparent attenuation	68.66%
IBU	57
SRM	6.5
Mash at	150º F
Sparge at	170º F
Boil time	150 minutes
pitching temp	58.5º F
Yeast	WLP013 London Ale (Worthington White Shield)

 

 

Let's Brew Wednesday - 1901 Truman (Burton) No. 7 R

Truman was still brewing a large range of Mild Ales in 1901. I’ve always wondered where these beers were sold. Because I’m pretty sure that they weren’t available in Truman’s London pubs. Were they sold in the free trade or in their tied houses in the Midlands?

There’s nothing very exciting about the recipe. It’s just base pale malt and an unspecified type of sugar. Though there were four types of pale malt, two made from English barley and two from Californian. The latter making up around a quarter of the total.

All the hops were English. Two from the 1899 harvest and one from 1900. With around 80% from the earlier year.

The “R” suffix tells you that this beer received no ageing. It would have been consumed within a couple of weeks of racking. 

1901 Truman (Burton) No. 7 R
pale malt	13.50 lb	96.43%
No. 2 sugar	0.50 lb	3.57%
Fuggles 150 mins	1.50 oz
Fuggles 60 mins	1.50 oz
Fuggles 30 mins	1.50 oz
OG	1062
FG	1018
ABV	5.82
Apparent attenuation	70.97%
IBU	51
SRM	6.5
Mash at	150º F
Sparge at	170º F
Boil time	150 minutes
pitching temp	58.5º F
Yeast	WLP013 London Ale (Worthington White Shield)

 

 

Let's Brew - 1901 Truman (Burton) No. 8K

I was mistaken about Ale being Truman’s weakest Mild. Because this version of No. 8, is weaker.  While in 1883 No. 8 was a little stronger. Not sure what’s gone on there.

There’s not much difference from the Ale recipe. Just less sugar – only around half the amount. Once again, there were four types of pale malt, two made from English barley and two from American. Though the latter only made up a little less than a quarter of the total.

The hopping was a little heavier than for the Ale. Once more there were three types of English, in this case all from the 1899 harvest. There was also a small quantity of Pacific hops, also from 1899.

Don’t be fooled by the K in the name. This wasn’t a beer for ageing.
 

1901 Truman (Burton) No. 8K
pale malt	10.25 lb	98.20%
No. 2 sugar	0.1875 lb	1.80%
Fuggles 150 mins	1.25 oz
Cluster 150 mins	0.33 oz
Fuggles 60 mins	1.25 oz
Fuggles 30 mins	1.25 oz
OG	1046
FG	1013
ABV	4.37
Apparent attenuation	71.74%
IBU	54
SRM	5
Mash at	154º F
Sparge at	170º F
Boil time	150 minutes
pitching temp	59º F
Yeast	WLP013 London Ale (Worthington White Shield)

 

 

Let's Brew Wednesday - 1901 Truman (Burton) Ale

As we enter a new century, what has happened to Truman’s weakest Mild Ale? Well, surprisingly, it has the same gravity as in 1883. But there have been some changes.

The grist has become a little more complicated with the addition of a little sugar.  I’ve no idea what type of sugar, as there’s no indication of any kind in the brewing record. I’ve just guessed No. 2 invert. There were four types of base malt, two made from English barley and two from Californian. With the latter making up around a quarter of the total.

The hopping is way heavier than in 1883. Which is pretty obvious when you look at the calculated IBUs. The hops themselves were all English, one from the 1900 harvest and the other two from 1899.

As this was the weakest Truman’s Mild Ale, there’s no way this got any older than a couple of weeks before being drunk. 

1901 Truman (Burton) Ale
pale malt	11.25 lb	97.15%
No. 2 sugar	0.33 lb	2.85%
Fuggles 150 mins	1.25 oz
Fuggles 60 mins	1.25 oz
Fuggles 30 mins	1.25 oz
OG	1051
FG	1012
ABV	5.16
Apparent attenuation	76.47%
IBU	45
SRM	5.5
Mash at	150º F
Sparge at	170º F
Boil time	150 minutes
pitching temp	59.5º F
Yeast	WLP013 London Ale (Worthington White Shield)

 

 

English Lager (part three)

We're back with the story of the world's favourite type of beer in the UK. This time looking at Allsopps fancy new Lager brewery, bought at great expense from the USA.

The author clearly believed that Allsopps was a wonderful company.

It is always difficult in the initial stages of a new industry to make it sufficiently popular to command success, and this may have been the cause of the general failures of the lager beer breweries of this country, but Messrs-Allsopp and Sons will start their project under the most favourable conditions for success. Their capital is ample, they can command the best of talent to be found amongst technical brewers, they now have not only a speciality in bitter and other beers commanding a ready sale throughout the United Kingdom, but they are also interested in tied houses in which they can control the sale of their new product in good condition. We shall, therefore, at no distant date be able to see the effect of this competition between top and bottom fermentation beer, and if the attempt is successful other brewers similarly circumstanced will be entering the field in competition with Messrs. Allsopp, and thereby give a stimulus to this industry which it was never before able to command.
The Brewers' Journal vol. 35 1899, January 15th 1899, pages 5 - 6.

It's quite funny, really, reading about how great Allsopps were. Just a few years before it all came tumbling down. They didn't have much capital left, as they'd spent it on overpriced tied houses. I doubt that the company ever expected to sell much of its Lager in its own tied estate. They wanted Lager for their export trade to the Far East.

The brewery was only active in Burton for a decade or so. Before falling into disuse. It was moved to Arrol's brewery in Alloa in 1921.

Here's the thing brewers seemed to hate about Lager: lagering. The Pfaudler vaccum system was intended to greatly speed up the process.

One great drawback to lager beer brewing is the length of time required to get it into condition for consumption, and many attempts have been made to hasten the process. The Pfaudler system of fermentation now in use in some American breweries is held out by the inventor as being able to produce a perfect beer, fit for consumption, in eleven days. After making every allowance for the optimism of inventors, the saving of time will be enormous if the invention is found in actual practice to do half as much as is claimed for it, and we are informed that this invention is to be tried at Burton in the production of the new beer, so that many problems are to be solved by Messrs. Allsopp's venture.
The Brewers' Journal vol. 35 1899, January 15th 1899, pages 5 - 6.

Could the system really brew a perfect Lager in eleven days? I doubt it. I'm sure some sort of beer could be produced. Eleven days is about how long a primary fermentation at low Lager temperatures would take. Doesn't leave much room for lagering.

Given that the Pfaudler system didn't take over the world, I'm guessing it wasn't quite as brilliant as claimed. 

Here's more about the Lager brewery:

A Lager Brewery for Burton.
Messrs. Allsopp and Sons are about to enter upon an important enterprise in the establishment of a lager brewery in High Street. The site chosen is that which is occupied by the company’s old brewery, which was closed for several years after the formation of the company, but has lately been reopened. Here it was that Messrs. Allsopp originally commenced business, and where the family laid the foundation of their fortunes. The initial outlay on the new venture is estimated at £80,030, and it has been decided upon after careful consideration by the directors, and after the most stringent enquiries and investigation on the part of the chairman (the Hon. Percy Allsopp) and the head brewer (Mr. Hutton) among the lager breweries in Germany. The system decided on is that of the Pfaudler Vacuum Fermentation Company, and known as the “F. F.” vacuum system, whose chief works and offices are in New York. By this method, it is claimed, the main fermentation and the so-called after or small fermentation are combined, and the beer is completely fermented, aged, and made ready for the market — a matured and perfect beer in every detail. The plant which it is proposed to lay down will be capable of turning out from 50,000 to 60,000 barrels a year, and it is to include machines for making ten tons of ice per day for cooling purposes. This is the first time the system has been adopted in England, and it is expected to be in working order early in May, and the first lot of lager placed on the market in June. The directors are confident that the scheme will prove very advantageous to the shareholders.
The Brewers' Journal vol. 35 1899, January 15th 1899, page 10. 

80,000 quid was a shitload of money back then. Though it was a decent size. 60,000 barrels was enough to supply all the Lager consumed in the UK.

It does sound like the Pfaudler system just skipped secondary fermentation  I'm sure there's no way that could affect the flavour.

Let's Brew - 1887 Truman (Burton) Light Bitter

Sometime between 1883 and 1887, Truman introduced a new type of Pale Ale, called LB. One which was quite different from their existing beers. I’m assuming it stood for Light Bitter. What else could it be?

What makes it different? Once again, it’s the hopping. Which is far lower than in the other Pale Ales. Just 5.25 lbs per quarter (336 lbs) of malt. Compared to between 14.5 lbs and 20 lbs. Quite a big difference, then. Though its gravity is a little higher than that of P2.

The grist isn’t the same, either. As there’s some sugar as well as the pale malt. Not sure exactly what sort of sugar, as there’s no description in the brewing record. I’ve guessed No. 1 invert. Not exactly a daring guess.

Three types of hops: Californian and Kent from the 1885 harvest and Worcester from 1886. Just not all that many of them. Though it still comes out 42 (Calculated) IBU.

As a Light Bitter, this would have had no ageing. It would have been drunk within a couple of weeks of racking.

1887 Truman (Burton) Light Bitter
pale malt	12.75 lb	91.07%
No. 1 invert sugar	1.25 lb	8.93%
Cluster 180 mins	1.00 oz
Fuggles 60 mins	1.00 oz
Goldings 30 mins	1.00 oz
Goldings dry hops	0.50 oz
OG	1064
FG	1019
ABV	5.95
Apparent attenuation	70.31%
IBU	42
SRM	6.5
Mash at	150º F
Sparge at	170º F
Boil time	180 minutes
pitching temp	58º F
Yeast	WLP013 London Ale (Worthington White Shield)

 

Let's Brew Wednesday - 1883 Truman (Burton) P1 Export

Am I Done yet with Truman Pale Ales? We'll see. Top of the range coming up..

Here, we have a top-class Burton Pale Ale, which was directly competing with the Likes of Bass Pale Ale and Allsopp IPA. Though Truman, as Bass, didn’t specifically call it a Pale Ale. Don’t blame me for past brewers’ inconsistencies.

Slimmed down well describes the grist, which is nothing more than a single type of pale malt. I can’t tell you anything more about it as the description is a mere scribble. The handwriting of the brewers in Trumans Burton brewery was appalling. At least they wrote the numbers fairly clearly.

Thankfully, the Burton brewery didn’t use any weird codes when recording mashing details. Unlike at the London plant. Two mashes 153º and 158º F, followed by a sparge. For which they couldn’t be arsed to record the temperature of the water.

I’m a bit surprised that the (calculated) bitterness didn’t work out higher. It’s still a hefty amount of four different types of hops: Bavarian, American, Bohemian and something that looks like Vacha. It’s hard to tell with the terrible wring. I’m just glad the other three are legible. I guessed it was another Bohemian hop.

The bitterness would have had plenty of time to fade, with 12 months or so in trade casks before setting off for distant shores. As a Stock Pale Ale, Brettanomyces would have been its maturation chum.

1883 Truman (Burton) P1 Export
pale malt	16.00 lb	100.00%
Cluster 180 mins	2.50 oz
Hallertau 90 mins	2.50 oz
Saaz 60 mins	2.50 oz
Saaz 30 mins	2.50 oz
Goldings dry hops	1.50 oz
OG	1069
FG	1008
ABV	8.07
Apparent attenuation	88.41%
IBU	123
SRM	5.5
Mash at	153º F
Sparge at	165º F
Boil time	180 minutes
pitching temp	54º F
Yeast	WLP013 London Ale (Worthington White Shield)

 

 

 

Let's Brew - 1887 Truman (Burton) P2 Export B

Another variant of P2 is this export bottling version. Meant for, er, bottling and export. It’s not complicated. There was also a straight P2 B. But that was pretty much identical to P2 Stock.

Whereas the export version is considerably more heavily hopped than even P2 Stock. At over 20 lbs per quarter (336 lbs) of malt, it’s in IPA territory. Very heavy, even for the 19th century. All fresh hops, from the 1886 harvest. Two thirds from Kent, one third from Worcester. Top-quality stuff.

Not much to say about the grist. Which was, again, 100% of a single type of pale malt.

Now for the tricky bit. How long was this aged? Quite a long time. My guess is 12 months in wood then another six months in bottle. 

1887 Truman (Burton) P2 Export B
pale malt	14.00 lb	100.00%
Fuggles 180 mins	3.50 oz
Fuggles 60 mins	3.50 oz
Goldings 30 mins	3.50 oz
Goldings dry hops	1.50 oz
OG	1060
FG	1013
ABV	6.22
Apparent attenuation	78.33%
IBU	126
SRM	5
Mash at	151º F
Sparge at	170º F
Boil time	180 minutes
pitching temp	58º F
Yeast	WLP013 London Ale (Worthington White Shield)