Monday, August 31, 2009

Is This Heaven? No, It's Iowa.*

After the tractor parade, we had to be off; we were expected at our B&B in Des Moines by 7 or 8 p.m. First, though, we made a quick stop at Willie’s Tamales on the road out of town. Aunt Ruth and Uncle Vern had pointed out Willie’s on the way back from Kenyon’s the night before, and it was definitely worth the stop.

Willie's makes a Mississippi Delta tamale. Jane and Michael Stern, who are responsible for many a good meal and many an extra pound in this family (and a trip to the emergency room in Peoria), have described this dish as "an anthropological wonder" -- a mix of traditional Mexican (masa wrapped in corn husk) and genuine soul food (slow, slow cooked beef and pork filling) steamed in a rich chili-infused stock and served in multiples of three. It is found in a very limited area of Mississippi and Arkansas ... and Peoria and environs. (Willie, it seems, moved to Peoria from Mississippi.)

Thus fortified, we continued up the highway to I80 and headed west to Des Moines.

Sadly, this isn't saying much.


The welcome centre near Davenport featured a huge sculpture of iconic Iowa products, these two being the most obvious.

After a nice hour’s detour off the interstate, we arrived in a rainy Des Moines. Our B&B was a big, beautiful old house in a neighbourhood of similar houses. “Congratulations!” our host exclaimed as we came in. Congratulations for what, we thought – sure, we made pretty good time from Chillicothe but it didn’t seem worth commenting on. “You’re just married, right?” she asked.

Having set the record “straight,” we headed out to find food and wine. Our room was so comfortable that we decided to eat in rather than dine out.

A little garish, perhaps, but that bed was so soft.


And we didn't have to worry about losing track of time.

We headed out to the Gateway Market (what a grocery store!) and loaded up on bread, cheese, olives, La Quercia prosciutto (about which more later), and wine. With the chocolates on the pillow it was a fine night!

Tomorrow: the Iowa State Fair!

*From W.P. Kinsella, Field of Dreams

Sunday, August 30, 2009

Tractors, Ho!

On Friday we headed north to Chillicothe via the Dickson Mounds, a Native American burial ground. Parts of the Dickson Mounds site were occupied by people as early as 100 A.D., and parts continued to be occupied by Native Americans until the 1700s. Kelly remembers visiting the Mounds with her grandmother in the 70s – back then, the excavated graves and skeletons were open to the public. In 1992, after continued protests, the graves were resealed. What was once a viewing stand onto an open grave is now a solemn, darkened room.

The Museum gives a good explanation of the Native cultures that inhabited the site, and a context for the Mississipian people who built the burial mounds here and at Cahokia, Illinois (which we visited on an earlier trip). Settlements such as these at the Dickson Mounds and Cahokia were central nodes in a vast, complex trading network that spanned all of North America and well into Central America and predated the European arrival by hundreds of years.

Dickson Mounds is also in a beautiful location, out in the middle of nowhere with a great view for miles around. In fact, on our way to the Mounds, we were surprised to find ourselves driving through wetlands which we didn’t remember from the last time we’d driven up Route 78. Turns out that we remembered correctly; last time we had passed through, it was farmland. Subsequently, they removed the levees that had held back the waters of Lake Chautaqua (we assume) and let the land revert to its original state. In this picture, you can still see a couple of trees that once stood on a farm property.


This work was funded in part by the Nature Conservancy and with funds raised by the annual Federal Migratory Bird Hunting and Conservation Stamp. As a result, lots of great territory is being reclaimed and protected for fishing, hunting, and birdwatching.

That may sound like a contradictory mix, but the truth is, both birding and responsible hunting can co-exist. We saw lots of Great Egrets and a bunch of unidentifiable ducks. We also saw lots of tiny, brilliant blue dragonflies.

We got to Chillicothe just before supper time. One good reason to visit Chillicothe is that it’s so close to Lacon, home of Kenyon’s Place. This is a restaurant where you can get a fried chicken dinner with spaghetti and tortellini, your choice of two sides, a corn fritter and bread: a dinner that could feed about four people, but which you can consume in one sitting with the proper mind-set and perseverance. (Though frankly, we find the spaghetti and tortellini a bit of overkill and have taken a pass on that since our inaugural visit.) Uncle Vern and Aunt Ruth took us here on our first visit to Chillicothe in 1992. On our second visit to Chillicothe, a few years later, our Kenyon’s experience was pre-empted by an exciting trip to the emergency room in Peoria (Sara + barbecue + more barbecue + Ted Drewe’s concrete custard + soda pop + chips + 100 degrees Fahrenheit = Peoria emergency room). Instead, we hit the Steak ‘n’ Shake at about midnight.

After dinner, Uncle Vern took us for a preview of the next day’s attractions at Three Sisters Park. We’re talking about a lot of tractors.





Later, Kelly’s cousin Kirby and her husband John showed up with a bunch of kringles imported from Racine, Wisconsin. The kringle is a sinfully delicious Danish pastry; Kirby brought apricot, chocolate pecan, and cherry. It had to wait until morning; in the meantime we had a couple of beers and quite a few laughs before hitting the hay.

The next morning, most of us got up bright and early to eat kringle and get ready for Farm Heritage Days. Uncle Vern, 2008 Tractor Champion, had to leave early to wipe the dew off his tractor and shine her up.


Eventually we all headed over to Three Sisters Park, filled with anticipation.


Farm Heritage Days had several attractions, such as the chainsaw woodcarver:


A coal-fired steam engine:


There was a blacksmith from whom we bought a nicely wrought hook and a slick litle rebar snake. There was also a restored turn-of-the-century farmhouse, bake sale (including Kirby’s tractor cookies, which were scandalously underpriced at only 25 cents each), and goats.



Kelly got into the spirit of things and bought a Farm Heritage Days t-shirt, which Aunt Ruthie made her change into in the back of the car. She apparantly "shielded" Kelly from view but we all question how effective that could have been in a wide-open field.


Other top-drawer attractions included tractor pull competitions -- for old and young.


People tend to dress in the colour of their favorite tractor. This boy is a fan of Allis-Chambers -- the orange tractor in the top photo. Here, he's pedalling a John Deere. Seems kind of silly, doesn't it?

Truth is, the best tractor in the world, bar none, is the red tractor: McCormick Farmall, later International Harvester, now Case-IH.


There also happened to be sheep dog trials going on in a different part of the park. An amazing thing to watch.



We saw maybe a half dozen different dogs at work.



If you ask me, it was pretty hard work for the sheep, too.





It was close on 90 degrees -- dogs and sheep got mighty hot. The sheep had a little tent but the dogs all jumped into the pool when they were finished. (Cocktails were served later, on the Lido deck.)


Lunch, pork chop sandwiches and lemon shake-ups, was generously provided by John and Kirby. Following lunch was the highlight of the day, the tractor parade.


Uncle Vern, as last year’s champion, was at the beginning of the parade, but apart from him, this was Sara's favourite entry:


We enjoyed the tractor aesthetic.







It was a fine day.

Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Across the Mississippi

After breakfast with Kent and Mary on our first morning in Jacksonville (highlight: the ripest cataloupe and peaches you could imagine), we headed over the Mississippi to Hannibal, Missouri, the childhood home of Mark Twain and the people who inspired the characters of The Adventures of Tom Sawyer and The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn.


We saw the famous fence that Tom Sawyer was assigned to paint:


A replica of the house where the boy on whom Huck Finn was modelled lived:


And the house where the girl on whom Becky Thatcher was modelled lived. This is the view from the house that Sam Clemens (Mark Twain) grew up in.


This is the drugstore where the Clemens family lived after the father died.


After lunch in a local restaurant, during which Sara ate the only barbeque of the entire trip (can you believe that?!) and Kelly had a substandard catfish sandwich, we strolled through downtown Hannibal. At an antique shop we gave our second explanation of the Canadian health care system (the first was in Grandma Margret’s kitchen in Centralia to one of her neighbours) and then visited an arts shop where we bought a couple of souvenirs. Everyone needs a scrap metal bat to hang up in their back yard.

We also went to take a look at the mighty Mississipp. Hawks circled overhead.


We were dutifully warned of some serious danger:


And we were reminded that this is still a working river:


These young boys were fishing for catfish, and one of them yelled that he hooked a big one.


Here the Mississippi heads north. It goes on, and on.


After crossing the bridge in that picture back into Illinois, we detoured south and drove through Pittsfield, Carrolton, and Whitehall, where various members of the Kelly and Alexander families were born or lived. Pittsfield and Carrolton are county seats with very nice courthouses.

Pittsfield:



Carrollton:


Kelly sticking her head in a picture in Carollton. No vacation would be complete without Kelly sticking her head in a picture.


An abandoned schoolhouse between Pittsfield and Carrollton.


On our way east to Carrollton, we passed a series of summer places built on stilts alongside the Illinlois River. Then, at Kampsville, we noticed that the road ended at the river. Ferry ride!


The view down the Illinois:


Who says the Midwest is nothing but cornfields?