L'Ambre de Carthage by Isabey

*****

Year: 2011

Notes: bergamot, thyme, cardamom, cinnamon, jasmine tea, geranium, osmanthus, patchouli, amber, labdanum, birch, olibanum, sandalwood, sensual musks

Isabey's third modern release revives the name of their classic 1924 fragrance, L'Ambre de Carthage, for a new masculine offering. The only trouble is that there's nothing particularly masculine about it.

Sharing vaguely familiar olfactory traits to Fleur Nocturne, L'Ambre de Carthage is a genteel woody-amber with noticeable floral trimmings. While it isn't markedly less sweet than this house's two feminine creations, it also lacks any bold, earthy or rugged elements that would distinguish it as something specifically targeted towards men (as confirmed by ‘Parfum pour Homme' on the label).

Regardless of this minor detail, the fragrance itself is yet another ho-hum addition to this genre, with low sillage and disappointing staying power.

Coming from Isabey, it's a monumental let down.

Fleur Nocturne by Isabey

*****

Year: 2009

Notes: mandarin, white peach, apricot blossom, magnolia, jasmine, gardenia, solar notes, vanilla, patchouli

Formerly released as Bleu de Chine in 1925, chances of Fleur Nocturne's contemporary nature being true to its former incarnation are very slim. Instead, it's a modern fruity white floral that's noticeably louder than its sibling, Gardenia, but just as well-blended and sophisticated.

The opening of mandarin and peach is sweet, juicy and surprisingly well-behaved, providing an uplifting contrast to Gardenia's more sombre traits. As it develops, the fruit notes gradually recede, allowing a fragrant bouquet of florals to unfurl. As for the base, the vanilla is never overbearing while the patchouli accord offers a more unisex perspective.

Like being caught up in a ménage à trois, one is unable (or simply unwilling) to decide between Fleur Nocturne and Gardenia. However, with Fleur Nocturne being more tenacious and gender neutral, one naturally feels more drawn to it...

Gardenia by Isabey

*****

Year: 2004

Notes: Italian tangerine, orange blossom, Bulgarian rose, ylang-ylang, jasmine, gardenia, iris, Indian sandalwood, ambergris, musk

Originally released in the 1920s, Gardenia isn't really a true gardenia fragrance but more of a complex gardenia soliflore.

Deprived of any overtly fresh, green or tropical associations, it's a warm, luscious and sweet floral creation, with a subtle retro aura. The notes are extremely well-blended, with the ylang-ylang, jasmine and iris being the more discernible floral accords. Draped over a sensual base of ambergris, sandalwood and musk, one is also able to detect the presence of some vanilla or tonka bean, especially during its delicate and powdery drydown.

While it smells luxurious, it also shares obvious similarities with Robert Piquet's Fracas. Such striking parallels are bound to occur but one much prefers Gardenia's exquisite complexity. With a distinctive creamy quality to the composition, it oozes mature femininity and sophistication in the best possible way.

With extremely good lasting power and moderate sillage, it could have been slightly more potent. However, one still remains both enchanted and impressed by its feminine charms.