Monday, August 31, 2009


Living in the land of "Mai pen rai"...


The Thai live their lives by a simple philosophy "mai pen rai" which, from what I have been told, loosely translate to something close to "it can't be helped" or for my Japanese readers "shoganai".

Annoying, cumbersome, frustrating and generally bothersome situations just kinda roll off them like water off a duck's back. Do they really not sweat the small stuff? Well probably not but like so many countries in this part of the world, they have an uncanny ability to smile away their frustrations and carry on. I am attempting to follow the same path. It's a struggle at time and believe me, the fact that nothing in this country seems to work properly at the best of times does not help in the matter. But I'm slowly starting to turn that frown and furrowed brow upsidedown.


"oh there aren't enough books for the students even though they are paying thousands of dollars to come here?...mai pen rai"


"oh you want to me photocopy the books because you won't buy anymore but you forgot to tell me that there is no paper for the photocopiers in the whole school?...mai pen rai"


"oh you finally photocopied the books but you forgot to tell me that the school hasn't ordered any plastic bindings so I just have a stack of about 1000 unattached pages to sort through?...mai pen rai"


"oh my building got hit by lighting which resulted in a 12 hour power outage...mai pen rai"


"oh the alarm clock that I paid extra money for because it was supposed to have a back up power supply in case of power outages died the minute the juice turned off...mai pen rai"


the list goes on and on but my hair is still embedded in the folicles and the wrinkles do not seem to have multiplied too much as of yet.


This weekend I'm off to Koh Samet with some of the younger teachers at school. After 2 arduous weeks back in the land of teacherdom it's going to be a welcomed vacay!

Apparently this is the view from the bungalows I'm staying in:

Yes! HEEELLLOOOOO THAILAND!

Cheers from the land of Mai Pen Rai...
J

Sunday, August 23, 2009


Apologies, I have been a bad blogger.

Thing have been pretty busy here since my last post...which is no excuse I know, but it seems like every time I sat down to post I seemed to get tongue tied. Things here have been pretty nuts. Ups and downs, goods and bads. School starts tomorrow so we shall see which way the scale tips.

In order to save you all from my usual rambling verbosity I will separate my thoughts into well organized headings and subheadings just as I get my students to do.

Bangkok:

A pretty crazy place but in general it seems like I'm going to like it. It is a lot dirtier and a lot grittier than Japan but I would count that as a positive rather than a negative. People here walk slower, "follow" the rules - that's using the term lightly, drive on the sidewalks and generally have a more relaxed view on life. The phrase "don't worry about it" is actually a cultural identifier here. Nice!


Weather:

Rainy rainy rainy with hella lightning and thunder. It's the rainy season here right now so pretty much every night is a big light show with booming thunder accompaniments. Last night our cab was literally floating down the street...strangely enough it didn't stall, they must all secretly be those amphibious water cars...probably sold on the cheap from the Soviets.

HOT! Freaking hot. I don't think it's been below 35 since I got here. It's also incredibly humid. A walk outside requires some serious mopping of the brow.

COLD! Aircon here is a way of life but they seem to think that since it's so freaking hot outside it should be cold enough inside to practically see your breath. I didn't bring anything that even resembles a sweater or cardigan for work. That is going to have to change because the aircon in my class is goosebump inducing.

Not at cheap as one may think. I read in a lot of books before I got here that Bangkok can either be cheap or incredibly expensive depending on how you choose to live. I've seen both sides of the coin so far. Definitely it is cheaper to eat on the street than to cook for yourself, hence most Thai houses and apartments don't have a stove or in some cases even a cooktop. People just buy their dinner on the street. I had the best meal I've had so far from a guy with a cart and it cost me all of 35 baht (which is about 1.10$) Red curry, tofu and rice. Yummers. I also had a full Indian meal of rice, Paneer and salad for 50 Baht (1.80). Not too shabby. However, if you go to the grocery store to buy food to make yourself you're looking at dropping 500 -800 baht. Which is around 20bucks Canadian. Not advisable. It's almost better not to have a stove so you're not tempted! A lot of other stuff is expensive too. Unfortunately I have had to put a lot of money out to get set up with stuff for my apartment and stuff so I think I'll be pretty broke for a while (considering I don't get paid until Sept 30th!) Groan...

From what I can tell the nightlife here is bumping. I went out to a proper night club on Friday and it was unlike anything I've ever been to in Canada...or Japan for that matter. It was enormous. Room after room after room each with it's own theme. House, live rock, hip hop, R&B, Chill. There was even a live band in the ladies washroom! Annyoingly enough foreigners have to pay cover but Thais don't...that being said I probably make more in a week than many of them make in a month.

My Apartment:

My apartment is quite nice. It's huge and the pool is great. But it's kinda outta the way. I am contracted here for 3 months at which point I am pretty sure I am going to move as long as I can get my hands on a nice place. I went and checked out another building where some younger teachers live and although it's smaller, it has a much better location. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that something comes available and my bartering skills will get me a decent deal (since everything in Thailand is negotiable).

It has also become apparent that the people who live above me play "Rock Band" at ridiculous times of the evening/night and I have to listen to their muffled drumming. BOOOO!

School:


Hmmmm....how do I say this without sounding too negative.


In Thailand, everything looks better on paper. My school is no exception. Yes, it's British and yes, it's international and yes, it has IB and ICGSE and Round Square and all those things that look great on a resume. Is it organized? The easiest answer would be no. Are the outrageous tuition fees the students pay going towards resources and equipment which will improve the level of education they receive at the school? The answer would once again be no. Does the family who owns the school show up to campus in a stretch limo? The answer would be yes. You do the math. The school is highly lacking in resources which for a teacher is incredibly frustrating. When the money students pay to the school goes towards lining the pockets of already ridiculously wealthy people it's even more annoying.

That being said, I have a ceiling mounted data projector in my class and there is absolutely no sign of an overhead projector anywhere in the school! Hallelujah!!!!

School for the students starts tomorrow and so I will finally be able to see what it is I'm dealing with. I have been assigned a ridiculously varied timetable (a class of year 7s, 8s, 9s, 10s, and 12s) Because it is British their "year" is actually one grade above us therefore their year 12 is our grade 11. So as you can see I'm going to be working 5 preps. I also have been assigned to what's called a "tutor group" of year 9s. I meet with them for one 80 minute class a week where I have to teach them about being good citizens and health and safety and stuff. I am also in charge of their "moral education"! Ha! Me, in charge of a child's morality! What was this school thinking! Anyway, I have to plan for that class as well so technically I'm working 6 preps! Yowza.

My classes for the most part are really small though. My biggest class is my year 10s and there are only 20 of them. The break from marking is going to be nice for sure...hopefully the time I used to spend marking won't be completely eaten up by planning for 6 preps! I also have to do an extra curricular once a week after school for an hour. I am going to start and writing/lit club.

The teachers at school all seem really nice and the ones that have been around for a year or two don't seem phased at all by the complete lack of organization. Apparently it's a pretty laxed place to work and I have had more than one teacher tell me that it's the most laxed teaching job I'm ever going to have. Here's hoping.

There is a great little bar right across the street from the school where all the teachers go every day after class. No more Friday after school clubs here..."health and safety commitee" meetings are a daily occurence and beers are only a buck. The food ain't too shabby either. Keeping on the social track, the first weekend in September is always reserved for a non school sanctioned teachers' trip to Koh Samet, a resort island about 2 hours away from Bangkok. It's pretty much gonna be a lot of drinking and sunning and collegial bonding on the beach. Can't complain.

I can't really think of anything. My pics are posted on facebook for the most part. I haven't taken a lot but I know I have to start since I don't want to get caught in the trap I did in Japan where I constantly told myself, "don't worry about take a pic of that, you're here for 2 years you'll get it later" and then I never bother and come home with no pics.
OK that's it...
Cheers from the land of the new and confusing.
P.S the Bangkok diet plan is going well...think I'm already down about 5 pounds.

Tuesday, August 11, 2009

Not so far from civilization after all...and a food tangent


Today, driven by a desperate need for a blowdryer, and iron and some hangers I set off in search of some kind of shopping establishment that had four walls and did not consist of sweaty stalls surrounded by rabid dogs and ditches filled with smelly mystery liquid (Chatuchak I love you but sometimes a girls needs a little Western flavour).

I had been told that there is a big shopping center called Robinson/Carrefour somewhere near my house, I had also seen on the internet that there was a Jusco (yay Japan) near my house as well.



Me, being a stupid foreigner figured that there was only one of these shopping centers however after a fruitless mime game with, and subsequent abandonment from, a cab driver in the driveway of my apartment building, I was informed by the front desk staff that there are several Robinsons. She kindly radioed what I was trying to do to the driveway guard guy and he told a cabby where I wanted to go. Hooray!


As it turns out the shopping center is only about a 10 minute cab ride away which is great and there is pretty much everything I could want there. Office Depot, a home depot type place, big grocery stores, a Jusco and Daiso as well as some of my well loved Japanese favorites (Mr. Donut!!)



To make a long story short, I am now the proud owner of a blowdryer, iron and hangers, not to mention a garbage can and a cutting board. Small pleasures in the familiar world but quite exciting in a land where, for the moment, the smallest task is a huge undertaking.

What I did notice while shopping is that some things in Thailand are not that cheap, in fact they are pretty darn expensive!



I spent about a half an hour stolling through the aisles of Carrefour grocery store. I think it might be a bit of a fancy place since I think its actually an European chain but there definitely wasn't many deals to be had, at least where foreign food is concerned. For example, a small package of emmenthal cheese goes for 10 bucks Canadian! yowza! I also saw frozen burritos for 10$ for 2! Definitely not the land of 75 cent dinner I was told about. I guess I will once again be living in the land of no cheese...sad memories of Japan. Boo! I didn't find any dill pickles but I have a feeling that when I do, they are not going to fall into the rock bottom basement prices category.

It's become clear that those people who say it's cheaper to eat on the street than to cook for yourself aren't lying. Each time I go to the grocery store it costs me about 600 baht which is just under 20 bucks which isn't cheap. So, for the sake of my bank account I'm moving towards the street food.



Exhibit A:


Mystery plastic bag street food. What is it? Your guess is as good as mine but they only cost a buck each and as I found out after digging in they were quite tasty indeed.

What I have been forced to accept is that I am going to be spending a lot of time over the next two years fishing the meat out of my food. I don't eat meat but I've never been too terribly militant about it being in my food. I just fish it out or eat around it. I don't care if my food touches flesh, I just don't want to put it in my mouth. Yes, I know it makes me a bad vegetarian but I eat fish so technically I guess I'm not a good vegetarian to begin with.

Both of of my mystery bags had meat in them so I had to doctor them up a bit. Take some stuff out and put some stuff in and in an act that would probably make a Thai person gasp in dismay I mixed them together!


And the final result:


Yummy! Mystery bag food (post meat removal) and salad (washed in previous boiled water of course).

So far my digestive system is not revolting...it has only been a few hours however.



Cheers from a gastronomical guessing game
J




Monday, August 10, 2009

Uncomfortably well off...

One thing that I've noticed about Bangkok is that there is a very clear, and very obvious split between the rich and the poor. Take my neighbourhood for example. I live in a hotel/apartment complex on a small side road. From the outside it looks very glamourous and right next door there is another complex that looks even more expensive. However, right across the street there are rows of shacks made of corrugated sheet metal, scrap wood and plastic. There appears to be no property line between the people who have and the people who have not. It's a bit unsettling, not because I have issues with poor people, but because it makes me feel slightly uncomfortable with my place in this society. I don't have a lot of experience with being "rich" or better off than those around me. In fact, I have taken pride in the fact that I have spent most of my life closer to the bottom rungs of the economic ladder than the top. So now I am in a situation where I am in a very foreign and uncomfortable place of wealth.






I think this picture sums up my current financial situation well. The giant red building on the right is my school, only a stone's throw away from the local housing on the river. The school is surrounded by huge concrete walls and iron gates with guards. At the moment I am stuggling with the fact that I am working there while the rest of the world lives on the other side of the river. I have not actually been into the school yet since I wasn't too interested in trying to communicate to the guard that I was going to be starting work there next week and would like to take a boo, but I can imagine that the wealth of the school is as apparent inside as it is outside.




Here's another view. The rich looking down on the poor. A bit creepy to say the least.

I'm still not sure how I'm going to maneuver my way around my new social status. At the moment it's leaving a bit of a sour taste in my mouth.

Cheers from the upper crust

J

Musings of a three day old Bangkokian...

After three days of wandering aimlessly through the streets of my little neighbourhood I have come to the following conclusions:

If you have a strong aversion to any combination of the following, Bangkok may not be the place for you...

  1. Strong smells...of the unpleasant genre
  2. Stinky black rivers
  3. Traffic jams
  4. Exhaust
  5. Poverty
  6. Fish sauce

However, if you enjoy the following, Bangkok may be the place for you...

  1. taxi cabs
  2. street noodles
  3. swimming pools
  4. cheap everything
  5. 24hour nightlife
  6. 1$ beer
  7. smiles

Of course these are only the observations of a 3day old newborn. We'll see how things change as time goes on.

Cheers from the nursery
J

Friday, August 07, 2009

expat-a-licious!

The eagle has landed.

I have arrived safe and sound into the hustle and bustle of Bangkok after a long (seemingly endless) cross-continental journey. Unfortunately one of my bag did not follow me and is apparently still sitting in the airport in Beijing. Should have it tonight or tomorrow hopefully.

My apartment is nice. It's pretty big and has a nice big balcony. Unfortunately my view looks out over a scenic expressway but if I look down I'm right over the pool so that's nice. I have lots of storage space and the furniture will do for now (it's mint green...). I have also managed to find an internet bubble to hack into and have CNN on the TV so pretty set there.

Today's schedule consists of putting on a good pair of walking shoes and heading out on an exploratory mission of the 'hood and buy some necessities (I showed up to an apartment with no toilet paper!)

stay tuned for pics.

cheers from the near east!
J

Saturday, August 01, 2009

I am so busy! My blog is suffering the fate of a neglected child.
I am still alive children. Will be back in writing shape soon.
Leaving for Bangkok in 5 days! The delightful stories are soon to follow.
Tonight is my sayonara party. It is pirate themed. Should be ridiculous.
This post is as short and disjointed as my current state of mind.
I have a visa in my passport and adventure in my soul...probably all I really need.
Keep on checking...don't give up on me.
Cheers from the chaos
J