We met up Monday night at 11 PM at my house to drive to Timberline Lodge. We took my Hyundai Elantra because we knew the roads were clear of snow since we had been up to Timberline lodge two days earlier for the snow climbing course. It was nice driving up to the mountain without traffic for a change and we made it up to Timberline Lodge a little before 1AM. We filled out our climber's registration forms and grabbed some blue bags for any #2 emergencies. Then we parked, got geared up, eventually, and ready. I am a notoriously punctual grinch and my anxiety was building a bit at this point as we were getting off a tad late. That anxiety was heightened by the fact that we had set a pretty hard deadline to be off the summit by 8:00 am. Mt Hood is safest to summit in early morning while all the rock and ice is frozen, and when the sun begins to warm it becomes increasingly likely to have ice & rock fall near the summit. With all of us being newbies and putting on this rental gear for the first time, it took about 20 minutes to get situated. Finally we were ready and we hit the climber's trail about 1:15AM. Before I get into the details of the climb, I’ll tell you how Stuart Monson, Scott Taylor and myself got here, to the trailhead of Mt Hood at 1:15 AM on Tuesday, May 11 2021.
I’ve always had a desire to try new exciting and outdoor adventures. I started with distance running after marrying Becca, spurred on by her excitement for me to challenge myself and push to take on these physical goals. She signed me up for my first half marathon in 2009 once I casually started running to stay in shape and was building up to 5 mile runs. That soon turned in to running my first (and only to this point) marathon in 2013. This distance running became my exercise addiction and I used continued to run numerous races, with the highlights being the 5 Hood to Coast races I ran in 2011, 2015, 2016, 2017, and 2018. I had my first introduction to the world of alpine climbing in 2017 when a good college friend invited me to join him and his brother in-law on a trip to climb Mt Shasta in California. I was enthralled with the idea and entering into that world but eventually Becca and I decided I needed more experience and training before taking on this type of challenge that is more than just a test of endurance, but has actual life threatening dangers.
To get some climbing experience I began finding some challenging hikes over the next few years to do during summer months. My cousin Stuart had gotten into ultra marathons so he was a perfect companion to begin these hikes with. We climbed Dog Mountain in the gorge which is a 6.5 miles gaining 2,949 feet of elevation. (2,949’ summit)
My first big climbing trip came in June
2020 when I drove down to Utah to take my daughter to visit her friend for a
week. While she caught up with her bestie, I took on an endurance test for the
ages with 5 summits in 5 days along the Wasatch Mountains. Monday, Day 1: Mt
Nebo 9.3 miles 3,589 feet of elevation (11,929’ summit). Tuesday, Day 2: Provo
Peak 12.6 miles 7,089 feet of elevation (11,068’ summit). Wednesday, Day 3:
Pfiefferhorn 11 miles 4404 feet of elevation (11,325’ summit). Day 4: Boxelder
Peak 11.2 miles 5,488 feet of elevation (11,101’ summit). Day 5: Sundial Peak
10.7 miles 4,812 feet of elevation (10,320’ summit). I won’t give the full trip report here, but
this week of endurance climbing taught me the proper way to eat, hydrate, pace,
navigate, dress and pack for all different kinds of environments.
Mostly it taught me how my body responds to grueling day long climbs and gave me confidence that I can push myself safely to more than I had previously thought possible.
I came back from that trip with my Mt Hood in my sights and immediately the planning began. Mt Hood is a glaciated summit which means it is snow covered year round. There are many routes and seasons to climb, but it is universally accepted that the S face route in mid Spring is the safest and least challenging of all the routes. There is snow pack the entire climb and weather is fairly mild. In training for Hood I continued the endurance preparation by climbing Mt Defiance 12.4 miles 5072 feet of elevation (4,960’ summit) once in August 2020 and again in April 2021. I also ran, lifted weights and hiked hills to get my body ready. I was hoping to get my weight under 200 lbs before the climb, but I missed on that goal as I was a portly 217 lbs on climbing day.
Every winter, there are a group of 3-4 guy friends who ski together and during
our trip skiing on Mt Hood in January 2021 I was talking about the plan to
climb the mountain in May, and Scott Taylor chimed in that he would be up for
that. He had been training for a marathon and loved hiking and rock climbing. I
also invited Stuart Monson and although he wasn’t in his peak Ultra marathon
form from 2017-2018, he was still up for the challenge. That is how this group
got together.
One other thing we did before taking on Mt Hood was to attend a steep snow climbing day course on Mt Hood to learn the basics of climbing techniques using crampons, ice axe, and safe methods to ascend and descend the mountain. Scott, Stuart and I took this together just 2 days before the climb and were able to get a sense for the right clothing and tactics for the climb. It was also helpful being up there we could see the actual route it became so much easier to visualize what it would be actual be like in the coming days. In the days leading up to the climb I was getting more and more excited, culminating in Monday, May 10th. I had to coach Levi’s soccer practice at 5:00 pm so my plan was to get home from coaching, then eat dinner and try and sleep for a few hours. After so many months of planning and preparing I was so amped to finally be doing it. I had some nerves, but that was turned into energy and excitement more than worry. I can’t say the same for Becca, who had been so supportive and encouraging in helping me prepare with the training hikes and snow course on Saturday while she was home with the kids. At this point on Monday evening her nerves were a little frayed as she faced the prospect of not sleeping all night while she tracks my progress and worries about a misstep on an icy slope or an avalanche or the abominable Hood snowman.
Fast forward a few hours and it was 1:15 am and we were on the trail 6.4 miles
5,249 feet of elevation (11,250’ summit) in our sights.
Well, not actually in our sights
because it was pitch dark and with a headlamp we could only see 15 feet in
front of us. Within the first 50 feet Stu was having issues with his boot. The
fit on the rentals was bad and was squeezing uncomfortably on his forefoot. He
tried making some adjustments and we continued on. Scott led the way at a quick
pace, partly to make up for the slow start, and partly just to be excited to
finally be moving. We paused after a few minutes and looked back to notice Stu
had dropped back a little and as he caught up to us his prognosis was not good.
He said he didn’t feel like he had it in him. The combination of the foot pain,
the elevation and the pace just shook his confidence. He didn’t want to push on
with the way he felt, only to advance up the mountain and then have to turn
back being in worse pain and facing a longer trek back to the car alone. I
tried my best to motivate him onward as we moved forward together a few more
minutes but his head was out of it. He took my keys and headed back to the car.
He drove home, got a few hours of sleep. 3 became 2.
Scott and I pressed on. We were told that
someone in good shape can climb about 1,000ft an hour. We took a 10 minute
break after about an hour and we had climbed about 1,200 ft and gone about a
mile. We were keeping the tough pace but it was taxing. Being lowlanders living
at 500 ft elevation, it is an immediate shock to your system hiking uphill
above 6,000 feet. The conditions were wonderful though. The sky was completely
clear with only a slight breeze. At each of the breaks I would look up at the
stars in amazement. Literally billions of stars in every direction. Pretty
spectacular. The next mile put us just above the highest ski lift at Timberline
and another 1,400 ft of elevation gain. It was here that things were icy enough
and steep enough that we decided to put on our crampons but stuck with our
trekking poles. Traction was significantly better with crampons but it took
more effort. It seemed like we were one of the earliest climbers heading up as
we only saw a couple twinkling headlights above us. The weather was cold, but I
was glad I had opted for a soft shell jacket and lighter hiking pants instead
of my heavy winter coat and ski pants. I was able to keep up the tough pace
without sweating much or being too cold.
We followed a map from AllTrails and took a jog
to the west at the top of Palmer lift and then back North toward Crater Rock. We
could tell from the map that to the RH side there were some rivines but it was too
dark to make out how far so we made sure we were plenty far to the West of
those. As the horizon began to lighten, we could barely make out Illumination
rock to our West. We were climbing well, feeling good, and looked to be ahead
of our expected schedule. For most of the climb to this point Scott had been
pushing the pace, with me doing my best to keep up. I was up for the challenge
but it was a real strain to continue above the 1000 ft/hour pace, hour after
hour. We made great progress though and we could tell we were approaching
Crater rock because every once and a while, the wind would bring us a whiff of
the sulfur smell from the fumaroles at Devil's Kitchen. The sun was coming up
and opened provided some beautiful views.
We switched from our trekking poles to our ice
axes as we approached Crater Rock. When we got above 10,000 ft of elevation, Scott’s
started to feel upset. Could have been the sulfur vents or the elevation, or
probably both, but he started to wane a bit at that point.
We took a short break at Hogsback to eat, drink,
and switch to warmer gloves. We looked at the routes ahead of us. There were a
few other groups of climbers either on Hogsback or heading up the Pearly Gates.
We had originally planned on heading up Hogsback and then traversing west at
the Bergschrund to ascend the Old Chute. At our class on Saturday, the
instructor recommended instead going over Hogsback into a dirt area to the base
of the Old Chute to avoid the traverse. There was a visible trail through the
dirt area so we followed it to the bottom of the Old Chute. This was the
steepest part of the climb.
I had purchased one ice axe and rented another so attacked the mountain in an upward bear crawl with an axe in each hand. It was incredibly steep but the ice axes got good purchase with every move and the crampons easily gave good foot holds on the way up the Old Chute. I was happy to be ascending beyond Crater Rock as the sulfur smell finally dissipated. We got into a slow rhythm. Right foot, right axe, left foot, left axe, over and over. This was the most difficult part of the climb. Climbing at steep angles for hours with tight boots and crampons really wore on my feet and once we were headed up the old chute, there was no place to sit and give my feet a break. Additionally, I started having muscle cramps in my hip flexors and triceps. I think I was getting dehydrated so took long deliberate drinks and shook my muscles out to continue up. There was a moment then that I thought to myself I could be in real trouble there if my muscle cramps got worse. I was 500 feet above the closest flat surface either below me at hogsback or above me at the summit. That worry was immediately followed by a wave of confidence that I had put my body through worse before and it didn’t let me down then, and I would have enough strength to continue up. I am glad I had done the climbs previously and gained that experience and trust. Scott and I climbed side by side for a bit to avoid knocking ice on each other but I caught my second wind and started at a faster pace to push for the summit. The thought in my head was the sooner you get to the summit to sooner you can sit down. Scott was struggling though this as well, and beyond his body being exhausted and his stomach hurting, his head started pounding from the elevation. He kept upward though and didn’t give up.
As we got within 200 feet from the top of the Old Chute, a group of climbers were coming down. I worked my way right to get out of their path and Scott stayed to the left, not wanting to pass directly below them. After they headed past us, I made it to the top of Old Chute and Scott was there not too long after. When we got to the top of the Old Chute, the other side of the ridge is a sheer drop off, but there was a place to sit and rest for a few minutes before taking on the traverse to the summit.
To get to the summit from the Old Chute, you have to traverse the ridge titled the “knife’s edge.” Most of it is fairly tame but one short section is a catwalk. It was narrower than I expected and at one point is so narrow, it's only wide enough for one boot. A drop off on either side.
We took our time and extreme care to cross the narrow area safely. I wish I had gotten some pictures of it now, but in the moment the only thought was moving slowly across.
40 feet later we had made the summit of Mt Hood! 11,250 feet as the highest point in Oregon.
It is an exhilarating feeling each time I reach a summit. The combination of reaching my goal, being physically exhausted and the incredible sweeping 360 degree views take over all my senses. I have been a distance runner for years and what I love about climbing is that your get the runner’s high but then it is amplified by the surroundings in a way that running can never reach. Running a marathon is an incredible accomplishment but when you reach the finish line, you are still just on a road in the middle of a city. There is a medal though!
At the summit there was a small group was about to head down. We immediately sat to rest and take it all in. For about 10 minutes we had the summit to ourselves and took several pictures trying to capture everything in view from the summit. The skies were perfectly clear and to the North we could see the gorge, Mt St Helens, Mt Rainier and Mt Adams lined up row. To the South we could see Mt Jefferson and the Three Sisters. Between all the peaks you could see the Willamette valley for miles. We had made the climb up in under 6 hours, summiting just after 7:00 am.
When we got our fill, we headed back across the traverse to descend the way we came up. Down was still work but easier than going up. About halfway down the Old Chute, I found some steps someone had kicked in to the far right. We both followed this path down and having those tracks kicked in made the decent much easier.

Instead of going back through the dirt at the hot rocks area, we decided to traverse just below the bergschrund and the traverse was fairly easy. It was better than the way we had gone on the way up. Conditions change so much up there, it's hard to know on any given day which is the easiest route. I did take a slight detour to see down inside the berschrund (crevasse) that is open about 12 feet wide and 75 feet long near the top of the hogsback. Through Spring and Summer that crevasse opens wider and wider as the glacier moves down the mountain.
We descended hogsback past a
big group of climbers. We rested again at the bottom of hogsback and changed
into lighter clothing. The sun was fully up now and beating down. With no wind
it was alarmingly warm. I took off every layer and beanie and spent the rest of
the climb down in a long sleeve dryfit. I had done pretty well to keep eating during
the trek which helped keep my energy up. Favorites were beef jerky, sour patch
kids (surprisingly 800 calories in a bag), granola bar and PB&J. Scott had not fared so well as his stomach
was upset most of the day, he had not eaten much at all and completely bonked. We
were still above 10,000 ft and he had literally nothing in the tank. Again we
were near devil's kitchen and the fumaroles so the sulfur fumes only
exacerbated the problem. When we started down again, it was a little alarming
as Scott was staggering one foot in front of the other.
We saw a line up of skis just below Devil's Kitchen. It looked like several
skiers ditched their skis there to summit and then ski from there back down. There
were quite a few people heading up, some just to ski down and some still
heading up to summit. As we were getting close to the top of the Palmer lift, the
grade wasn’t quite as steep and the open snowfields were a perfect chance for
glissading.
We took off our crampons, sat down ice axes ready, and started sliding. It was
wonderful to give my feet and legs a break and just cruise down the mountain.
We quickly got the hang of it and used the ice axe along with our boots to
check our speed on the way down. Scott started feeling much better as we
dropped under 9,000 feet and was got his mojo back. The rest of the climb was a
breeze as we glissaded on steep sections and hiked where it wasn’t steep enough
to keep up speed.
With tired legs but feeling good we made it back to Timberline Lodge. Total
climb time 9 hours and 39 minutes to ascend (and descend) 5,226 ft.
The climb was a success for Scott and I although I wish Stu could have been
there through it all with us. It was more challenging than I expected but also
more exhilarating. I don’t have any immediate plans for which mountain is next,
but am thinking Mt Shasta & Mt Adams are looking pretty go



























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