Wednesday, August 31, 2011

What's Next?

Alright, I know I'm back in the States and Rostro no longer lists me as a current volunteer, but my ass is still unemployed, so I'm gonna keep writing. Deal with it. Through all this transition time, one thing I keep coming back to is this little thing we call the "What's Next?" talk. I'm sure I've mentioned this in previous posts, but in addition to our works sites, a big responsibility of being a Rostro de Cristo volunteer is hosting the 26 high school and college retreat groups who come down every year from the States. The retreats usually last anywhere from 7-10 days, and on the last day, we give this talk/guided reflection we call "What's Next?"

Now that I'm back, I've been doing a lot of the same kind of reflecting on my year in Ecuador, and what I'm going to do with that going forward. One thing I keep coming back to--one of the most powerful parts of the retreats, in my opinion--is taking the retreatants to Nuevo Mundo to meet Patricia McTeague. Pat first came to Ecuador as a nun in the late 60s, and she saw education as the tool to empower Ecuadorians to lift themselves out of poverty. In the early 80s, after a whole lot of "now's not the time" answers from the church/nunnery, Pat quit the sisterhood, partnered up with Sonya Rendón, and with $4,000 started the Fundación Nuevo Mundo in Sonya's parents' house. Today, the morning school offers the best education money can buy to Guayaquil's elite, all while subsidizing the education of hundreds (thousands over the past 30 years) of kids from the poorest areas of Guayaquil.

Seeing the impact this school has had on countless families, students, alumni, etc. is enough to inspire anyone, but talking to the founder herself can literally be a life changing experience. In not so many words, Pat is a bad ass bitch, and she does not pussyfoot around what she expects out of people. Her favorite statistic to throw at retreatants (most of whom come from expensive private Catholic high schools and universities) is that only 1% of the world's population gets a college education. Pat asks each student individually "What are you studying?" "What do you want to do when you graduate?" and "How are you going to change the world?" Heavy shit. Coming from someone who actually is changing the world, these questions carry weight.

Being in this 1% is a gift, a privilege--without a doubt--but for Pat, it's so much more than something to be thankful for. It's a goddamn obligation to use that gift, that privilege, that power to do what that other 99% can't do to make the world a better place. 99% of the world--maybe more--will never have the opportunities we have. That is the status quo--the nature of the unjust world we live in. Being in that 1%, though, we have the opportunity, the power to speak and act for those who can't. To work for a more just society, where maybe one day 2% or--God forbid--3% can get a college education.

And then Pat gets all serious and tells them something like "I'm old. I'll be long gone before you start doing something with your life. But I know I'm going to heaven. So when you get there, and you didn't do anything to make the world a better place, and you say 'I didn't know what I was supposed to do,' I'll be there, and I'll tell you. Yes you did. On this day in 2011, in Ecuador, the crazy bitch with the white hair told you what you had to do."

I've heard Pat bring down the wrath of God on at least 1/2 a dozen retreat groups, and every time I get a little lump in my throat when she gets to the "I'm telling you today what you have to do" part. You don't have to be Catholic or even believe in heaven and hell to get the point. We are that 1% who have the education, who have the power. Whether it feels like we can make a change or not, the fact is we can--if we choose to. Pat listened to her heart and did what she knew was right--not what the nuns or everyone else expected of her.

So, just as the retreatants reflect on their 7-10 days in Ecuador, here I am reflecting on my 365 days. Thinking about what Pat McTeague said--what am I gonna do to change the world? Thinking about working at Nuevo Mundo--the kids I taught who work way harder than I ever did, but don't have anywhere near the number of opportunities that I had. Thinking about the struggles of poverty--abusive husbands/fathers, teenage moms, non-existent healthcare, kids who can't go to school because they have to work, and kids who can go to school but are in a classroom with eighty other kids. But mostly I'm thinking about all the friends I made--the people who opened their homes, opened their lives to me this year. Shared their joys, struggles, laughter, and tears with me. Faces I will never forget. Thinking about going back to visit these friends, and what I'm going to have to say to them. What did I learn from this year I spent with them, and what am I going to do about it?

Don't worry, I don't have any answers yet. Not even close. Right now I'm just trying to get settled back in San Francisco (ask any of my former students, and they'll tell you where the best city in the world is). But these questions aren't going anywhere. And I'm never going to forget this year.


The Picchu

After a total of three hours sleep the two previous nights, three airport runs, and demasiado tearful goodbyes in Duran, I hopped a plane to Peru on Saturday morning, August 13th. Little layover in Lima, then got into Cusco around 5pm, thrilled as hell to see Chris Peterson's ugly ass waiting for me outside the airport. I think his first words were "Brother! You look like shit!" The lack of sleep, emotional drain of the goodbyes, and going from a sea level equatorial climate to the top of the damn Andes threw my body for a loop, to say the least. My body still isn't used to sub 80 degree temperatures, but those first two days in Cusco were the worst--no matter what I did, I literally could not get warm.

All good though... that's why they make mate de coca, right? We went out to dinner that first night and I got after a big plate of lomo saltado and washed it down with a nice warm cup of coca leaf tea. We went to bed early so I could catch up on some sleep, then we hit the hiking first thing Sunday morning (with more mate de coca for breakfast, claro). Chris had booked us on a four day trek to Machu Picchu starting Tuesday morning, so we wanted to get me acclimated to the altitude as soon as possible. He took me up to a few vista points above Cusco and we checked out a couple ruins and old Incan caves. Amazing stuff, but I felt like the fat kid in gym class huffin and puffin the whole way, asking Coach Peterson for water breaks every 20 minutes.


click here to see pics from the Cusco 
ruins and stove building in Pachar
Sunday night we bussed to Urubamba, a little town in the Sacred Valley a couple hours from Cusco. We woke up early Monday and spent the morning building stoves in the community of Pachar, just outside of Urubamba, with ProPeru, the volunteer program Chris is working with. After my year in Ecuador, it was really cool to see another volunteer program and the different work they were doing in Peru. The community was incredibly grateful (both the families we built stoves for fed us delicious lunches), and you could tell that the stoves were really going to be a positive thing for the communities. Click here for more info about the Pro Peru Stoves Project.

We headed back to Cusco Monday afternoon, ran into a little parade (pics in the album above), then got to bed early for another early morning Tuesday. Our 4 day Machu Picchu trek started right away with a 6am pickup, breakfast, then van ride up to the Abra de Malaga Pass, at 4,350 meters above sea level. From there, we started a 3 and a half hour bike ride, during which we literally went from the snowline at the top of the Andes to tropical jungle at 1,430 meters above sea level. Needless to say, we had to stop halfway to strip some layers.


click here to see pics from days 3,4,5 
on the road to Machu Picchu... 
biking, rafting, hiking, zip-lining
After the bike ride, we lunched, had a little nap, then did some white water rafting on the Rio Urubamba. We stayed in Santa Maria Tuesday night, then Wednesday morning were up at 6am again to start the hike to Santa Teresa. Stopped by a coca plantation--they assured us that the leaves were for tea, not la cocaina--hiked up to some old Inca trails high in the mountains (see pics in the album to the left), then back down to the river, ending the day relaxing in the natural hot baths of Santa Teresa (yes, the speedo made an appearance, but sorry, no pictures). After the biking and rafting the day before, then hiking all day Wednesday, the hot baths were aaaaaamazing. Cold beer, hot baths, call it a day.

Thursday morning we went zip-lining (pics & video above), then continued the trek to Machu Picchu. We followed the Urubamba River from Santa Teresa to Aguas Calientes, where we spent our last night before the Picchu. We left the hostel at 4am Friday morning and hiked something like 1,850 steps up to the entrance of Machu Picchu. Sure we could have taken the bus, but where's the fun in that? We crushed the hour hike in just over 30 mins, and promptly changed our shirts when we got to the top (our guide warned us we would sweat our asses off).

The gates opened at 6am, and Chris and I were in the first group let in (we would have been THE first if it weren't for a group of over-motivated Germans who were just ahead of us on the hike). We had about half an hour to cruise around the ruins before sunrise, which was absolutely beautiful. I'll never forget standing above those ruins in that crisp mountain air with no one else around (after the first hour or so, the ruins just got packed with turistas). We also hiked up Wayna Picchu, the mountain you always see in the background of Machu Picchu, which had some amazing views looking back on the ruins of Machu Picchu. The pictures (link below) should speak for themselves, but looking at them now, it's impossible to capture that feeling of being at the top of these mountains, immersed in this incredible display of human history, and surrounded by just sheer natural beauty. One of the many humbling experiences this year.
pics from The Lost City