SHANK

Ossobuco is difficult to top. Veal shank braised in vino bianco and aromatic veg sets the bar quite high. The gremolata and amount - and quality - of saffron really seals the deal. Sometimes I can't find shanks suitable for Ossobuco. I really need something hyperbolic, and Flintstonian. Otherwise, the dish's point is lost in moderation. How depressing. When the butcher gives me less sizable shanks, I think of other, perhaps simplier, ways of preperation.

Nothing beats flash searing an opressively seasoned shank. The incendiary pan creates a sumptuous crust; the interior remains ruddy, pink, nearly raw. In short, fantastic. Deglaze with brown chicken stock and a splash of brandy. Watch those flames. They'll get up there with a pan that hot. It's best to add the alcohol off the heat. Maybe pour yourself a finger. Reduce. Monter au beurre... A splash each of vinegar, Lea & Perrins. Check the seasoning.

In true short-order fashion, I had three pans going. One with sliced pig cheek bacon. The other to wilt baby arugula. Once the shank has rested, plate with the jus, arugula salad with lardons. I had some mint "pesto" up my sleeve, so I decorated the jus with leopard spots.

The small shank presents a limitless amount of texture and tastes with a really easy prep. Should I even mention it set me back $2? Verging on criminal, I splurged on booze and left with two Duvel.

Don't forget to use the fork tines to extract the bubbling marrow!

VEAL LIVER

Most green about the gills "farm-to-table" types will champion lamb's liver to no end. Noses flare upturned at the mention of chicken livers, much less calf's liver. Then there's the regal veal calf, and its light brown and remarkable supple organ. I've had luck on my side finding medium cuts as there is no butcher to speak of save the questionable "ethnic" spots where there's as much dirt on the floor as blood. Whew.

Again, nothing to hide the organ's flavor. A light coat of seasoned flour and to the pan of popping butter. A turn. Add some Lea & Perrins, some mustard. They're done. Introduce some arugula to the heat. Bacon, onions, sherry vinegar, salt and pepper.

To the plate.