Our Catholic Pilgrimage to England was a most wonderful and spiritual experience, with a depth and meaning that exceeded what could imagine. We left San Antonio at mid-day September 9th, arriving in London on the morning of September 10th. The following pictures and brief notes do not form an exhaustive account of our time, but touch on particular highlights, especially the places in which we celebrated our pilgrimage Masses.
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| St. Etheldreda's Church, London |
We celebrated the first Mass of our pilgrimage at the Church of St. Etheldreda. St Etheldreda’s Church was the town chapel of the Bishops of Ely from about 1250 to 1570. It is the oldest Catholic church in England and one of only two remaining buildings in London from the reign of Edward I. It was once one of the most influential places in London with a palace of vast grounds. It was like an independent state, the Bishop of Ely’s place in London or Ely Place as it is now called, and its chapel took its name from one of England’s most popular saints of the day, Etheldreda.
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| The High Altar at St. Etheldreda's Church |
Our visit to Westminster Abbey was all too brief, but we all had the overwhelming sense of stepping into the heart of British history. Benedictine monks first came to this site in the middle of the tenth century, and the Abbey has been the coronation church since 1066. It is the final resting place of seventeen monarchs. The present church, named officially as The Collegiate Church of St Peter, was begun by Henry III in 1245, and is one of the most important Gothic buildings in England.
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| The West Entrance of the Abbey |
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| The interior of Westminster Abbey |
Later on the first day of our pilgrimage we took a very long walk through Hyde Park, with the double purpose of staying awake until bed-time, and more importantly to visit the site of the Tyburn Martyrs. From 1535 to 1681 Tyburn was a place of cruelty, torture and execution for men and women who suffered on Tyburn Tree for their religious belief. According to the laws of the land in force at that time, it was an act of high treason to be a Catholic priest, or to associate with Catholic priests. The 105 Catholic Martyrs of Tyburn suffered death because they chose to remain faithful to the Pope as the true Head of the Church on earth.
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| Exterior view of the Chapel of the Tyburn Martyrs |
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| The marks the site of the Tyburn Tree, which served as the gallows. |
On our walk through Hyde Park we saw the beautiful Albert Memorial, which is located in Kensington Gardens, directly to the north of the Royal Albert Hall. It was commissioned by Queen Victoria in memory of her beloved husband, Prince Albert, who died of typhoid in 1861. The memorial was designed by Sir George Gilbert Scott in the Gothic Revival style.
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| Deacon Orr, standing in front of the Albert Memorial. |
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| The gilded statue of Prince Albert, beneath the ciborium which crowns the memorial. |
We made a visit to St. Paul's Cathedral, which is the masterpiece of the architect, Sir Christopher Wren. It is on the site of the original church dedicated to St. Paul the Apostle, founded in AD 604. The present Anglican cathedral, dating from the late 17th century, is designed in the English Baroque style, and was part of a major rebuilding program which took place in the city after the Great Fire of London in 1666.
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| St. Paul's Cathedral, London. |
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| The interior of St. Paul's Cathedral, London, showing the Choir and High Altar. |
The centre of the Catholic Church in England is Westminster Cathedral in London. Dedicated to the Most Precious Blood of Our Lord Jesus Christ, the Cathedral was designed in the Early Christian Byzantine style by the Victorian architect John Francis Bentley. The foundation stone was laid in 1895 and the fabric of the building was completed eight years later.
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| Westminster Cathedral. |
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| The galero of Cardinal Hume, handing in the Chapel of Ss. Gregory & Augustine. |
And what would a visit to London be without seeing the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace? The crowds were huge, the glimpse was brief, but it's all part of the necessary local colour, and it seems to be the one thing people ask if you saw.
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| Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace. |
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| Standing in front of the Queen Victoria Monument. |
We went to the infamous Tower of London, and considering the past horrors it had seen, it was somewhat disconcerting to see signs for "Gift Shop" and "Cafeteria" right next to places where prisoners had been tortured and put to death. But such is the passage of time. For us pilgrims, it was a place where we remembered and sought the intercession of such men as St. Thomas More and St. John Fisher.
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The so-called "Traitor's Gate" to which prisoners were brought by boat
on the River Thames, and through which they went to imprisonment and death. |
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| Deacon Orr seems to be enjoying the Tower a little too much! |
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| The Bell Tower, in which St. Thomas More was imprisoned. |
We celebrated Mass at the magnificent St. James, Spanish Place, which traces its roots to the time when the Spanish ambassador and his household -- Catholics all -- had a Chapel in which Mass was offered, even though it was illegal outside its walls. It became a place where English Catholics could find the comfort and grace of the sacraments, unavailable to them elsewhere.
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| St. James, Spanish Place, London. |
Our first journey outside London was to Windsor Castle in the county of Berkshire. The castle is notable for its long association with the British royal family and for its architecture. The original castle was built in the 11th century after the Norman invasion by William the Conqueror. Since the time of Henry I, it has been used by succeeding monarchs and it is the longest-occupied palace in Europe.
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| At the foot of the Long Walk, looking towards Windsor Castle. |
The London Oratory was founded in 1849, the year after John Henry Cardinal Newman established the Birmingham Oratory, when Newman sent Frederick Faber and some companions, including Thomas Francis Knox, to start an Oratory in London. We celebrated one of our pilgrimage Masses here.
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| The facade of the Brompton Oratory, London. |
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| The High Altar at the Brompton Oratory, London. |
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| Mass in the St. Joseph Chapel, Brompton Oratory. |
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| In front of the Newman statue, outside Brompton Oratory. |
As we entered the city of Canterbury, we went first to St. Martin's Church, which is the oldest church in continuous use in England. St Martin's was the private chapel of Queen Bertha of Kent in the 6th century before Augustine arrived from Rome. Queen Bertha was a Christian Frankish princess who arrived in England with her Chaplain, Bishop Liudhard. King Æthelberht of Kent, her husband, allowed her to continue to practise her religion in an existing church, which is mentioned by the Venerable Bede.
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| St. Martin's Church, Canterbury. |
We saw also the ruins of what was once the great St. Augustine's Abbey, which included a large school and a library of more than two thousand manuscripts. It is now in ruins, a victim of the dissolution of the monasteries by Henry VIII.
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| The ruins of St. Augustine's Abbey, outside Canterbury. |
Founded in 597, Canterbury Cathedral was completely rebuilt from 1070 to 1077. The east end was greatly enlarged at the beginning of the twelfth century, and largely rebuilt in the Gothic style following a fire in 1174, with significant eastward extensions to accommodate the flow of pilgrims visiting the shrine of Thomas Becket, the archbishop who was murdered in the cathedral in 1170. The Norman nave and transepts survived until the late fourteenth century, when they were demolished to make way for the present structures.
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| The main gate into the precinct of Canterbury Cathedral. |
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| Inside Canterbury Cathedral. |
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| The site of the martyrdom of St. Thomas Becket. |
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| The West End of Canterbury Cathedral. |
We headed to Salisbury, a place very special to me. JoAnn and I lived there for two years while I was studying at the Theological College next to the Cathedral Here's a view of the magnificent Cathedral as we were nearing the city.
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| Cathedral Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Salisbury. |
Beautiful Salisbury Cathedral -- it was here that I often played the great Fr Willis pipe organ, and frequently served as Sub-deacon on Sunday mornings. I came to love this cathedral so much that in my spare time as a student I would give tours to visitors.
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| Standing on the north side of the Cathedral. |
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| A view of the choir stalls on the south side. |
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| The tombstone of St. Osmund, Founder of the Diocese of Sarum (Salisbury). |
Number 23 The Close, where JoAnn and I had our flat when we were living in Salisbury. It was the home of Archdeacon and Mrs Basil Wingfield-Digby, who were very gracious to us while we lived on the top floor (where the dormer windows are). Our view was of the north side of the magnificent Cathedral, and we were just a few steps from the Theological College.
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| 23, The Close - we lived under the gables while in Salisbury. |
This is the Theological College where I studied in Salisbury. The main building was designed by Sir Christopher Wren, and the beautiful flint chapel at the side was designed by William Butterfield.
It was in that chapel that "the incident" took place, which I recount as a warning to my servers.
I was the thurifer, and we processed into the chapel with suitable pomp. I was swinging the thurible with great skill, including a few 360-degree circles. We began up the steps to the altar, and the edge of the base of the thurible caught the step, causing incense, flaming charcoal, and sparks to fly through the air, burning the sanctuary carpet as it all landed in front of me.
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| 19, The Close - my Theological College in Salisbury. |
Just outside the Cathedral Close is the lovely little Catholic Church of St. Osmund, designed by Pugin, where we celebrated Mass for the Feast of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross.
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| Mass at St. Osmund's Catholic Church, Salisbury. |
No trip to Salisbury would be complete without having a look at the ancient and eerie Stonehenge.
We then proceeded on to Bath and Bristol.
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| Exterior view of Bath Abbey. |
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| Interior view of Bath Abbey. |