i got this brainwave yesterday that there may be a dual use in these to stabilise the cardinal grammeters. if the oscillations can be spread out over a larger area than just the catheter, and be finely controlled, maybe such a device can run at the resonant frequency of the field… much to think about.

here’s a modern (non-functional) replica:

sadly the ivory commutator was missing from the original, and reverse-engineering one from a single photo with no look at the inside of the compensator coupling is basically impossible.

History lesson: Before the discovery of electrochemical 2:3-resonance in 1927, there was no way to drive the encabulation process automatically, and therefore no way to easily tune the asymptote. Because of that, the field was basically entirely theoretical, until the Sachri Reticulator.

Named after a Jean-Baptiste Sachri, a friend (some say lover) of the inventor, the Reticulator allows the operator to finely control the speed of a metal cylinder, in which is carved a groove that, if played in a phonograph, would produce two sine waves rising from 1Hz to 50kHz irregularly, varying in phase shift as they did so. The cylinder was instead “read” by three needles placed diagonally across the groove so that the distance between the outermost needles were 2/3rds of a wavelength out-of-phase with each other. The vibrations were then transferred into three irregularly-shaped plates inside the coupling seen on the image. The plates were then coupled to a 50cm long piece of ivory (the commutator), which held on its other end a seismograph-like drawing needle on a roll of paper. The plates’ shapes had to be specially tuned to the composition of the ivory. By running through the frequencies on the cylinder, the operator could, by observing the line on the seismograph paper, find the point where the three vibrations cancelled out, and that is where the local asymptote is.

The Reticulator took the science of encabulation into the real world for the first time. The name of the inventor has been lost to time, but naming such an important device after his dear friend is surely the greatest act of love.

It’s interesting how much of this stuff is just out in the open when you look for it. The big yellow thing is a float, i remember the team working on it had dragged it out of the water with a truck. This pump assembly was on the bottom. I thought it was some king of water quality tester but then i saw the modulator. From the oxidation it’s taken quite a beating, i’m guessing they were using the lake water as cooling for some sort of despin resonance operation. You don’t want that sort of thing unmodulated on an autonomous platform.

There are actually manholes in this thing. and manual controls. They were sending men in there while this thing was powered. Scary.

I’ve not set up a community before, i just want a place to discuss my hobbies. So if anyone has an idea of what needs to be added, i’m all ears.

My initial thoughts are that we probably want a wiki. Both as a quick reference and as a landing page for newbies. Yes, The Bad Site has one, but it’s on fandom and i don’t really feel like using it or straight up copying from it.

took this while getting a demo, i obviously don’t have a gantry crane at home (i wish).

This is always good to have around, even though some of these are a bit outdated. remember to cross-check with newer charts whenever impedence drops below a couple of million S.

Taken from the bad site.

Not a good look for the community.

!deltahunters@feddit.nu to get there from your own instance.

Need a new spurving bearing for your '83 Cosmotronic? Discovered a new type of gradial subpass? or just wanna show off how close to the limit you can take your barn finds? Come to Delta Hunters! Despite the tagline, we welcome discussion about everything encabulation-adjacent, from vintage refibrillators to new flux hammering theories.

Join a community of enthusiasts and help us bring those numbers up!

Borrowed from The Bad Site.

This is definitely a student project, you can see the toroidal alignment would cause significant structural strain. The idea is interesting though!

Yes it’s just an emulator, but the Qube is a great way to get your feet wet. I think the manuals are online somewhere.

Since Rockwell mostly used encabulation in transmission design, one can argue that this video is a bit niche. However it remains the clearest explanation of the concept for the layperson.

i’ve been battling this wrinkling phenomenon for weeks. it shows up at random, and i can’t figure out what i’m doing wrong. i’ve changed layer height. i’ve checked the z-offset of the extruder. i’ve lowered acceleration to 1/10th of normal. i’ve lowered the flow rate. i’ve raised the flow rate. i’ve cleaned the plate with soapy water and IPA. i’ve checked for bumps on plate and the bed. i’ve flipped the plate over. i’ve done automatic and manual levelling. i’ve redone the bed compensation calibration like twelve times. i’ve moved and rotated my print. i’ve tried different colours, materials and makes. i’ve dried the filaments to under 10% humidity. i’ve switched extruders. i’ve placed the printer on a mass damper (a 25kg slab of concrete on top of a 2cm thick rubber granule mat). the last thing i did was physically holding on to the extruder as it moved (that’s what that thicker band in the top left is).

this can happen no matter how far along the print i am. it can be fine for the first 300 layers, then start happening on layer 320 and be so serious that the extruder hits the wrinkles and loses its place on layer 330. i’ve been sitting there staring at the printer as it does it and the filament just seems to… come out like that. it doesn’t expand or anything. and sometimes it doesn’t happen at all. the only common denominator is that all the prints that it happens on have large horizontal planes.

i don’t think this is caused by overextrusion of the first layer, partly because it never happens on the first layer, and partially because i did a bed adhesion test:

yeah adhesion is awful here. i forgot to actually clean the plate this time. but the part in the middle is the only one that matters, and that is clean. if anything that looks like underextrusion. i just don’t understand. i think i need professional help. first from the 3d printing community, then from a therapist.

here’s my bed compensation matrix, for reference:

i’ve started printing in petg with pla supports since the support surface finish is so good, but whenever i print round things with tree supports i see what looks like layer shifts. since my printer is a corexy toolchanger and not a bedslinger this behaviour has confounded me until today, when i happened to look at the right time. it seems that the layers of the perimeter are not adhering properly, and as the filament cools it contracts, catches on support material, and pulls the entire ring off of the pla supports. meanwhile on the middle part i see no issues at all.

i don’t even know what to call this problem. it’s not stringing, it’s already extruded plastic that does it. layer adhesion issues maybe? the photo up top is a reconstruction of how this print looked on the bed, since it fell apart the moment i flexed the buildplate.

here’s a look at the underside of the pieces:

and a closeup of the round part:

as far as i can tell, that’s pretty much perfect before it falls apart.

i can still print with the “normal” supports because they come up the sides of the circle, but it feels like a waste of filament. any ideas?

i think i know why this is happening: someone has made an assumption about aspect ratios. my phone is tall and narrow, so anything locked to 16:9 will be stretched or have gaps.

Note: the original thread title was “how do i fix overextrusion on infill in orcaslicer?”. we’ve since deduced that’s not what’s happening. i’m leaving the rest of the op as is so you can follow the process.

So i’m doing a test print for a hot wheels track i’m making for a friend’s kid on my snapmaker u1, and i’m hearing scraping noises. when i look at the in-progress print, i see this horribly mangled infill. obviously the nozzle is hitting the previous layer, right? so that’s overextrusion, i think. too much material. but i let the print run, thinking maybe ironing will save it. but the surface finish is absolutely awful. all of the bumps and ridges of the infill pattern transfer up through the solid layers. not to mention now there’s ringing from the nozzle hitting the bumps, so there’s even more bumps. bummer.

also yes i fucked up the overhangs by trying to cheap out on supports. at least that one i know how to fix.

so, how do i deal with this? snapmaker ships a specialized version of orcaslicer (it’s called snapmaker orca, it’s on github) to deal with the u1s four separate print heads, and as far as i can tell there’s no setting in there for infill flow? should i just try to slow everything down? i thought it might be vibration-related so i added a 20kg concrete slab and a thick anti-vibration rubber mat to the setup but nothing changed. i also dried the filament out for six hours. the hygrometer in the snapdryer got down to 12% i think.

i’d hate to not be able to print this for the kid, it’s such a cool plaything.

Edit: to clarify, the grey filament is snapmaker matte PLA. the spool has an rfid chip in it so i’ve not changed any settings, the printer just detects it and sends it to orca.

Edit 2: i’ve done another test using gyroid infill and a lower flow rate, as recommended in the thread, but the surface finish is all bubbly. i cut a part out to check if the infill was the problem but it looks fine, while the surface is fucked. this is after ironing, by the way.

Edit 3: okay, i’ve now dried the spool out overnight and made a test disk with tweaked parameters, and i’m still seeing bubbles on top. here i increased the ironing flow from 8% to 20% so the surface is a lot smoother, but the bubbles are still visible. also getting some weird blobs on the side? could be related to the ironing. the middle circle is for a multicolor test but the dot was so small that the filament amount came out to 0.00 grams and the printer didn’t really know what to do. it just put in a single dot of (the wrong) filament and avoided the area.

the changed parameters are

• flow ratio: 0.95 -> 1
• nozzle temp: 215C -> 220C
• max volumetric speed: 22mm^3^/s -> 15mm^3^/s
• seam position: nearest -> random
• scarf joint: off -> contour and hole
• ironing flow: 8% -> 20%
• infill: gyroid 15% -> TPMS-D 10%
• infill combination: off -> on, 80%